In Praise of Blood Sausage
A couple of days ago I had the pleasure of enjoying lunch with fellow bloggers Jim Greeley and Shayne Hebert at the Milonga Argentine Restaurant in Sarasota FL. The chorizo on ciabatta bread was a true pleasure – richly flavored, slightly sweet, and delicious. But the real treat for us was the blood sausage, which was not on the lunch menu but which our host was happy to prepare for us.
Why does blood sausage have such a bad rep in this country? Well, I suppose the fact that it’s made from blood – usually pig’s blood – puts some people off. It’s also difficult to make at home as pig’s blood, due to government health regulations, is apparently illegal to sell here (though, strangely, cow’s blood is okay).
Blood sausage is made by cooking blood with a filler – usually grain plus spices - until it is thick enough to congeal when cooled. It is popular throughout Europe, Ireland, and Britain, as well as in Latin America and Asia. An excellent source of iron and vitamin B12 (though usually containing high amounts of sodium), it can be eaten raw or served grilled, fried, or boiled.
What kind of blood is used? Usually pig, but also cattle, sheep, duck, or goat. Fresh blood which has not yet coagulated works best. But don’t let that put you off. If prepared properly it will show none of the metallic flavors often linked with blood. Instead you will enjoy a delicious food with a rich and complex flavor.
An ancient dish going back to ancient Greece (it is mentioned in Homer), blood sausage under all its many names varies in different regions according to what filler is used. Typical fillers include meat, fat, suet, onion, nuts, rice, barley, and oatmeal.
The blood sausage that you do find in the U.S. is usually limited to small enclaves of German, British, Irish, Polish, and French Canadian immigrants, as well as among Cajuns. The Germans call it Blutwurst, and use pork blood with barley as filler. The Irish and Brits call it Black Pudding and use a large proportion of oatmeal. Traditionally they also added pennyroyal, a plant from the mint family. In Spain it is known as Morcilla and is a typical tapa made from pork blood with fat, rice, onions, garlic, oregano, and salt. The Polish know it as Kaszanka or Kishka. The French call it Boudin Noir. In Argentina it is often seasoned with paprika and other spices and eaten in a sandwich. There are hundred of variations throughout the world.
Now for the big question – what wine pairs well with blood pudding? Because blood sausage is fatty, you will need a tannic wine with strong acidity. I would recommend a Syrah or Grenache-based wine from the Rhône Valley or Spain. Château Cabrières Côtes du Rhône Villages or Château Roustan Costières de Nîmes would work very well. If you prefer Merlot try Domaine de Régusse Merlot, a Vin de Pays des Alpes de Haute Provence. While we’re at it, a good dry rosé sounds like a tasty pairing too. Try Quo Grenache Rosé from Campo de Borja.
A lot of people are put off this delightful repast because of its emphasis on blood. On the other hand many that taste it before they know what it is find it delicious. If you get the chance, do give it a try!
Bill Stobbs
ABC Wine Supervisor
(Follow me on Twitter at abcwinebills)