Brew Hops & Wine Stops

More from my quest to discover what makes boxed wines work for everyday table wines. To date, I've tasted several different labels/varietals--you can read my reviews under the 'boxed wines' category.

BLACK BOX CHARDONNAY 2009:

DAY 1: I was afraid of this one at first. I just don’t like Chardonnay that much, especially overdone ones, wood chips, you know the story….. this one is clean and fruity, but not much of that woodsy quality. Nice acidity, good flavor and balance. I like it today, but I fear it will lose its initial style and become flat and boring, which is what I dislike about so many Chards.

 DAY 3: Crisp and clean. Fresh aromas and refreshing, medium-bodied mouth with just the right amount of acidity to keep it from being boring.

Hopefully the acidity remains over the next week or so; it helps give the wine a clean, orchard fruit flavor.

 DAY 5: So far, so good!

 DAY 7: I think the freshness has slipped a bit: the wine sits in my mouth a little heavier than before. Not as bright, but to be honest, I have had many other Chardonnay for more money than this one, that faded in the bottle after a day or so, and were used in sauce rather than drank. Funny about Chardonnay…..I think I critique them differently (or more seriously) than any other white wine. I look closer for faults and for things that I don’t like rather than for enjoyment….. maybe because they are so popular. Even though many of my favorite whites are white Burgundies, I find these too sometimes fade very quickly once opened…..a reason to either share them or to not leave any wine left to the whimsies of time!

 DAY 9: Much like the Zin, I will consume this one faster if I buy it again. Nothing wrong with it even now, it made a good showing for itself, but it was such a pleasant surprise last week, I feel just a little like some of it was wasted. I think many people would still enjoy it without question (referring back to my possible bias against Chardonnay in general).

BLACK BOX CABERNET SAUVIGNON:

DAY 1: Just a decent example of Cabernet, not a good one. I was a little surprised that this one wasn’t better, and the Merlot wasn’t as nice.

Simple aromas and flavors, cassis and red/blackberries. The tannins here seem separated from the wine, like they don’t exist until the wine is gone, than you feel them, alone, without the helping hand of some length in the finish to complement them. Not bad, and for the price, once again, is this really any better or worse than many of the $5-$8 cabs on the market now? I don’t think so!

 DAY 3: No real changes. I tried this Cabernet today with a slight chill, and it benefitted the wine both aromatically and flavor-atically. Decent, typical Cabernet flavors, a subtle hint of bell pepper, and still tannins lingering there after the fruit is gone. Lost interest after this. Did you ever drink a wine, and part way through, you realize it could be any wine, not a bad wine, but interchangeable with anything else. I felt that way the first time (every time) I had tried the 2-buck Chuck wines…..they were just wine, sort of for wine's sake, nothing more. I understand the logic behind why the other varietals….Zinfandel, Malbec and the like seem to show better than the mainstream ones….the overall quality of fruit available varies by varietal. Everyone wants Cabernet, so the juice available is either expensive or just so-so.

Shayne Hebert, Central Florida Wine Supervisor

Continuing my somewhat sporadic investigation into boxed wines: the good, the not-so-good.

BOTABOX ZINFANDEL:

DAY 1: Slightly spicy, unmistakable Zinfandel aromas of underbrush and raisin. Really good! I would NOT guess a box wine for this, although I would immediately think Zinfandel.

DAY 3: Same as above, obvious Zinfandel quality, ripe and full, with loads of fruit and a nice balance.

DAY 5: Still coming across like a Zinfandel, plum and spice, has that heady Zinfandel quality that makes them so easy to enjoy. Low acidity and good weight combine to make it a very pleasing wine!

DAY 7: No real change over the past few days, I still really like the wine for what it is. I don’t drink many red Zinfandels anymore, for no real reason, but this one reminds me why I liked them to begin with. Has that unmistakable Zinfandel flavor, what else do I need to say!

DAY 9: Same as above, although I think there is a little less attractive fruitiness, maybe a bit of rustic bitterness in the finish. My guess is that is what you will find once the fruit begins to fade.

DAY 12: The box is almost done, which I am happy for, since I really liked it much more during the first week. Still easily drinkable, but this one is one that if I buy it again (and I do recommend it) I will consume a little faster!

BLACK BOX MERLOT:

Day 1: I really had no (or low) expectations for the merlot…..think ‘SIDEWAYS’…I never know what to expect from one anymore: there are so many mediocre examples to choose from (or to ignore if you happen to follow Paul Giamatti’s philosophy) and I am usually disappointed, regardless of price. The only way I can really think of merlot the wine is to try and remember the adjectives used in the Wine Spectator or Wine Advocate reviews. Descriptors like plums, black cherries and cedar…if I taste them, it must be a decent merlot. This Black Box had just those flavors. If I was blindfolded and tasted this, I would automatically say ‘Merlot’, which I must say could easily be a compliment.

 DAY 3: Same flavors, as expected. I remember a few years back, one of our suppliers poured a wine from decanters for the staff of Wine Consultants, asked them to taste it, guess what it was and put a price on it. Many of us guessed merlot, and someone in the room said it tasted about like a good $25 California Merlot (I guessed it to be merlot, but it tasted like a much less expensive example than that one fella thought). You guessed it, it was Black Box Merlot. I think this one is pretty much what you would expect, and I am sure many people will buy it more than once. To my taste, it is good enough for the price, but very straightforward and not inspired. Hard to recommend it when the Zinfandel is such a better example for the same price, but this is MERLOT, and will have its fans.

Shayne Hebert, Central Florida Wine Supervisor

The most recent installment in my quest to discover whether boxed wines live up to their billing, fulfilling my wish to have an easy-drinking table wine that doesn't need to be finished right away.

BOTA BOX MALBEC

DAY 1: Soft and rich, slightly off-dry with nice cedar, spice aromas and flavors. Medium body and pleasant, it finishes with spice and cocoa. Not my style, but very tasty (as I have found most all of the BotaBox wines so far).

DAY 3: Has a slightly meaty aroma, not gamey, but like Mourvedre, a bacon/smoked quality. Nice freshness, and like the other BotaBox wines, just a hint off-dry but full of varietal flavor.

DAY 5: Has pretty much the same aromatic quality, still fresh and very easy to enjoy.

DAY 9: Same flavors, ripe and soft, and even though the simple flavors are pretty straightforward, they are still easy to appreciate and holding well.

DAY 12: Has lost a touch of its vibrancy, still good though. The flavors are fading and becoming more one dimensional, but I do like the fact that I can still enjoy it without thinking too much.

DAY 14: Last glass, OK but not too exciting now. Drinkable, and not offensive, nice with pizza and two weeks is longer than anyone should need to drink this up.

Very nice, I will buy it again!

Shayne Hebert, Central Florida Wine Supervisor

Another installment in my quest to discover if box wines fulfill my desire for easy-drinking every day table wines that last. This time: Black Box Sauvignon Blanc.

DAY 1: Bright herb and grass, gooseberry and slightly grapefruit. Very tasty in this format. Refreshing and food friendly, I really will buy this one again! Let’s see if it holds up.

DAY 3: Same. I am a big Sauvignon blanc fan, but not always of the New Z style, and usually not a fan of any barrel/oak versions…This one is neither, leans a little toward New Z in style, but not so aggressive. More new wave than Sancerre and Pouilly-Fume, but still has elegance, as long as you don’t mind the cats' you-know-what.

DAY 5: Holding onto its bright, oakless clean style. Refreshing and crisp (crisp is the key here).

DAY 7: Same

DAY 9: Slightly fading, but still easy and tasty. Nice acidity still, good fruit, but not so much as early on. Almost gone?!?!?!?

DAY 11: Sorry to say it is gone, well before my test time ran its course, which may be the best accolade I can give it. This is one of the better box wines, and I will be buying this one again!

Shayne Hebert, Central Florida Wine Supervisor

Notes on two more 3.0L box wines I have tasted!

#3…Black Box Riesling 2009

DAY 1: Not much varietal aroma, subtle. Soft, with fat fruit on the palate. Sweet, like a Spatlese, but very little Riesling varietal character, which is odd. Finished softly, again without the acidity one expects from Riesling.

DAY 3: Aromatically challenged, the wine is simply sweet and soft, no varietal, low acids, a bit of ripe sweetness, but NO Riesling. The least recommended of the bunch so far.

DAY 5: Gave this to my neighbor, who likes sweet wines and doesn’t think much more about it than that

-Not recommended

#4…BOTABOX Shiraz 2009

DAY 1: Slightly muted aromas of cherries and spice. Ripe and pleasant, with plum, berries and a touch of prune flavors. Soft, low acidity and just a touch of tannins. Red fruit and cinnamon flavors on the finish. Deep color. All in all, not a bad box.

DAY 3: Hangs on to the ripe spice, not very rich, but down the middle, medium body, soft spice and a freshness that makes it very drinkable.

DAY 11: Spice aromas are gone, but the Shiraz still has that Syrah aroma and flavor. What better compliment can you give a wine, especially at this (entry) level than to say it has varietal flavor. Maybe a little off-dry, but still fine enough, and the reason I wanted to run this experiment is so I could find nice, inexpensive, correct wines that would hold up so I could have them over time and not have to drink the good bottles.

DAY 13: Still nice, not great, but it was never a great wine; still shows ripe fruit, although uncomplex and with only one real flavor profile, at least the one flavor is pleasant. At this point, I like this one as much as the Malbec from BotaBox and will buy it again.

DAY 15: Slightly faded aromas yet still holding pretty well. Still has a good fruit component, sadly it is nearly gone!

-Recommended

Shayne Hebert, Wine Supervisor Central Florida

Installment #2 in the ‘Thinking Inside the Box’ series: my quest for a decent, everyday table wine that is accessible and drinkable, without opening a new bottle every time.

The wine:  SEVEN (7) a Red Table Wine from Bodegas Osborne, made from seven grape types, including international varieties, and produced in SPAIN. $18.99

DAY 1

Simply, ruby purple color, aromas are forward, fruity and ripe. Grenache comes thru.

Wine is medium bodied with ripe, sweet fruit and a soft, spicy Grenache base. A good flavor and a nice likable wine.

Not complex, but tastes Spanish, which is a good thing! Nice party idea, let’s see how it handles time.

 DAY 3

A slightly less aromatic nose, but still nice aromas and flavors, slight cedar and spicy Grenache appeal, as tasty as when I opened it, nice, and so far, I would buy it again!

 DAY 5

Pretty much the same as above…..seems the no-air claim is working! Not a blockbuster of a wine, but has enough flair to keep it interesting, and more importantly, makes the perfect wine for the void I was trying to fill….something affordable to have when I want it, simply so I don’t have to think about it, something I can drink, and something to keep me away from my good bottles so I don’t open them only because I don’t have anything simple around!

 DAY 7 and 9

The nose is slightly less apparent but it keeps the fruity flavor going! Grenache aromas and flavors seem to dominate, but who’s complaining? It is still very drinkable!

 DAY 11:

More subtle Grenache fruit at this point, light and simple. Still fruity, dryish and starting to give up on the finish. Still, for an everyday red, simple and pleasing, to wash down pretty much anything besides peanut butter and jelly sandwiches, I am still enjoying  this one!

 DAY 23: Starting to fade, yet still has a mild pleasant fruitiness, but short and a bit green once the fruit has faded enough to notice. Still holding on, but I think it really showed its best in the first 2 weeks. Still, at $19, it has a nice flavor and holds up, albeit at a less intense and less qualitative level, than most of the delicious Spanish Grenache under $10 a bottle. I will give it one more try in 2 days!

 DAY 25: Has lost most of its fruit and appeal, but not oxidized a bit, so still can be enjoyed. Very one dimensional at this point, simple and slightly austere, but it lasted very well!

Shayne Hebert, Central Florida Wine Supervisor

The first installment of the 3 liter box-wine experiment!

 In a follow-up to my last blog, regarding the quality of 3 liter box wines, I have notes below for the BOTABOX Pinot Grigio 2009. It was the first white I have sampled, every other day (or so) over the course of a 3-4 week period. I have 4 other 3 liter boxes opened at home now, and the notes from those will follow in upcoming posts.

 #1…BOTABOX Pinot Grigio 2009

DAY 1: Bright floral, peachy aromas, soft and fruity palate. Dry, but just so. Clean and crisp flavors, very refreshing wine with mild acidity.

DAY 3: Holds the floral bouquet, soft and simple, but pretty nice still. Makes a nice ‘don’t think, just drink’ white, which is pretty much why I did this in the first place.

DAY 5: Pretty, soft and peachy. Nice mouth for a simple wine. Easy and straightforward flavors.

DAY 7: Same

DAY 9: Same (side note: I brought home a 1.5 Ltr La Vieille Ferme blanc opened from a tasting, a wine I really like, and two days later it had lost its freshness, while this pinot grigio seems to keep it)

DAY 12: Same

DAY 20: Finally lost some of its crispness, so now, although it is still fruity aromatically, it seems a bit dull and off-dry without the freshness from the acidity. Not as enjoyable now, but not bad either!

 This wine showed very well from the start; not very complex, but very flavorful and easy to enjoy. The basic reason for this experiment was to find wines that were exactly that…..good, solid, enjoyable everyday wines that held up, as the boxed wines are supposed to do, and this one did! I would say it is as good an example of inexpensive Pinot Grigio as most we offer, with the added benefit of staying fresh over time.

 Recommended!

 Shayne Hebert, Central Florida Wine Supervisor

Box wines have become more popular now than ever before in America, evident by the wide variety now available at ABC Fine Wine and Spirits. Most are from the US, but more and more, imported wines are being offered, in some cases the wine is imported for a domestic label. Wine in a box has an image crisis to overcome (although the concept seems to work just fine in Europe and other countries, none more so than Australia) and flashier, more exciting packaging is certainly helping.

 Add to this the fact that better quality wines are now packaged this way, just look at the price….some are $18.99 a box now, not $9.99! Hmmmm….The report that these wines can last up to a month or longer without losing their flavor is questionable, but worth a gamble since nothing bugs me more than tasting the second half of a bottle a day or two after I opened it only to find that I might as well have stayed up late the night I opened it and drank it, rather than waste it!

 The newest player in this format is called OCTAVIN, and the bag inside collapses to prevent oxidation. In addition, the package itself reduces packaging waste by 92% and carbon emissions by 55%. 

I have decided to throw myself at the mercy of these new ‘fine’ boxed wines, and will offer my humble opinion on each that I try. I will buy them and keep notes on the quality: color, bouquet, flavors, finish, overall impression and most importantly…..how they change from week to week. I hope you enjoy the experiment as much as I enjoy the research!

 My first wine will be one called, simply, SEVEN. A wine of Spanish origin, made by Bodegas Osborne, is a blend of seven traditional and international grapes. My notes on this will come in a week or two, once I have had adequate time to investigate!

Shayne Hebert, Central Florida Wine Supervisor