Brew Hops & Wine Stops

(In his blog on June 13^th Bill told of the long history of Greek wines, of their pre-eminence in ancient times, their sad fall from grace, and their recent resurgence in quality and popularity. Today he writes about some of the more popular wines and grape varieties ---)

The first experience for many people with Greek wine is Retsina, and I have to admit when I first tried it many years ago I did not like it. In fact I spat out what I had in my mouth and poured the rest of the bottle down the drain–something I’ve rarely ever done. Retsina is definitely an acquired taste. My first general acceptance of it was when I paired it with Greek food–suddenly the heavens opened and it seemed much more agreeable.

Traditionally, Retsina was homemade wine–the commercially bottled version wasn’t available until the 1960s–usually made from the Savatiano grape. There are many stories of its origin but the most likely one is simply that the ancient Greeks, knowing that air was the enemy of wine, used what they had at hand–pine resin–to seal the tops of the amphorae. The pine resin infiltrated the wine, and Retsina was born. Remember too that traditionally Greek wine was always diluted with water (or snow), which would have reduced the pine resin flavor. In fact, even today, should you be served an indifferent house Retsina in a taverna, it is recommended that you add soda water to it.

But Greek wine is much more than Retsina. There are over 300 indigenous grapes in Greece that are used for making wine. Most of us can only name a handful, but I’m sure that with more DNA testing we would find that many of the grapes of Italy, Southern France and Southern Spain originated in Greece under different names. The Greek word for wine–oenos–dates back to the Mycenean Period (1600-1100 BCE), and you will note that it has the same root as most European names for wine.

Traditionally, Greek wines were often (but not always) sweet and aromatic, and they often added herbs, spices and even perfume–a kind of ancient version of vermouth. In ancient times, as already stated, it was said that all wine should be diluted with water. They believed that only barbarians drank undiluted wine and that drinking it could drive you crazy and even kill you.

White grapes dominate with Greek wine but some of their best wines are red. A good place to start might be with Moschofilero (mos-ko-fee-ler-o), a blanc de gris grape with a deep pink skin that produces crisp, aromatic white wines with nice acidity and floral notes of roses and violets. Another popular cultivar is Assyrtsiko (a-seer-ti-ko) which is an appealing, food-friendly multipurpose white. Often found on the island of Santorini, this is bone dry, has a steely minerality and high acidity with hints of citrus fruit and blossom. Pair with calamari, light seafood or Greek salad.

Of the reds the most planted grape is Xinomavro (ksee-no-ma-vro) which translates as ‘acid black.’ Best known from Naoussa in Northern Greece, this is a full-bodied, spicy age-worthy wine with good tannins, and flavors of black olives and dried tomatoes. It can sometimes be rustic, but is often compared to Nebbiolo. Pair with lamb, red meat or meat-based pasta.

Agiorgitiko (ah-yor-yee-ti-ko) is perhaps the most important and noble red. Grown largely in the Peloponnese, it can be made in many styles including a pleasant rosé. Look for soft, spicy cherry notes.

And then there’s Mavrodaphne (mav-ro-tha-fnee) which translates as ‘black laurel,’ and is made largely in the Peloponnese and Ionian islands. When blended with the Black Corinth current grape it produces a delicious fortified wine akin to port, made in the solera style. Mavrodaphne has the added benefit, according to an elderly Greek-American acquaintance of mine, of being an aphrodisiac.

Of course, in trying to appeal to an international market, grapes like syrah, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc have been introduced to Greek vineyards, and that is fine. But I hope you’ll be inspired to take a chance on their indigenous varieties. With recent investments and new technology we are seeing a rebirth in quality in these wines, as well as a link to the earliest days of wine history.

Yamas!

Bill Stobbs, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Supervisor

Follow me on Twitter @abcwinebills

Editor's Note: This is the first in a two part series by Bill Stobbs on Greek wines. Have more questions on the subject? Comment below and let us know!

While I often eschew both the media at large and the topical wine media for always having to be on the lookout for the new and next big thing, I must also admit that as a simple wine lover I enjoy exploring wine areas and facets that are new or at least largely unfamiliar to me.

Lately, somewhere in the back of my mind, I’ve had this vague but often-present need to taste and understand the wines of Greece a little better. Now, the enjoyment of Greek wine is hardly new, reaching back as it does beyond the dim undulations of Homer’s “wine-dark sea.” Nor is it exactly the next big thing except in as much as there currently seems to be a minor renaissance in quality winemaking in Greece as well as a burgeoning cult-following throughout much of the world.

I’m far from being an expert on Greek wine, and that’s the reason I decided to do some research. For this blog I’ll speak about the history of Greek wine and I’ll continue next time with a kind of beginner’s guide to Greek wine and grape varieties.

Most of us know that Greece is one of the oldest wine-producing areas of the world, and winemaking there dates back to the Bronze Age. We also know that wine became a dominant factor in their trade and economy. The Greeks introduced vines and winemaking practices to countries that have long since surpassed them in international recognition for wine, such as Italy, Sicily, France and Spain. So what happened? Why did this small country that dominated the ancient wine trade become little more than a footnote as far as the international market is concerned?

Let’s begin at what we know of the beginning. Proper winemaking practices probably came to Greece from Egypt and quickly grew in quality and popularity. Greece has a moderate climate, plentiful sunshine, low average rainfall and moderately fertile soil–just perfect for those grape vines. And so as the early historian Thucydides indicates, “The peoples of the Mediterranean began to emerge from barbarism when they learned to cultivate the olive and the vine.” Festivals and celebrations that worshiped Dionysus, the god of wine, became widespread and eventually reached almost all parts of the Mediterranean. Symposia were held (intellectual gatherings to discuss philosophical subjects) at which wine was used (in moderation) to stimulate intellectual clarity and spiritual awareness. In medicine Hippocrates used wine as a cure for fevers, to ease convalescence and as an antiseptic, as well as an analgesic, a diuretic, a tonic and a digestive aid.

 

And, as stated, Greece eventually brought vitis vinifera vines to the rest of Europe. Exactly what those vines were is largely unknown, but it is known that many Italian grape varieties such as Moscato, Malvasia, Trebbiano, Aglianico, Greco di Tufo and Grachetto originally came from Greece. Vinsanto, that delicious naturally sweet dessert wine that we usually associate with Italy, originated–both the wine and the process–on the Greek island of Santorini. Hence the name.

The reason for Greece’s fall from grace as a major wine producer seems to have been a series of mishaps over many centuries beginning with the 400 year Turkish Occupation. The Turks discouraged winemaking during those centuries. Even in 1821, when the occupation ended, the retreating Turks burned many of the Greek vineyards. Soon afterwards it became more profitable for Greek farmers to grow currants rather than wine grapes. When French vines became ravaged by phylloxera they were forced to buy Greek currents in order to increase production and strengthen their own wines. But by 1900 the French wine market was back on its feet, and the Greek market for currants collapsed. By that time phylloxera had also completely destroyed the Macedonian vineyards and done considerable damage to other Greek wine areas. The 20^th century offered little respite to winemaking with the Balkan wars, two World Wars, and the Greek Civil War.

Hopefully, despite all their economic woes, the 21^st century will mark the beginning of a new age of internationally recognized quality wines from Greece.

To be continued...

Bill Stobbs, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Supervisor

Follow him on Twitter @abcwinebills