(In his blog on June 13^th Bill told of the long history of Greek wines, of their pre-eminence in ancient times, their sad fall from grace, and their recent resurgence in quality and popularity. Today he writes about some of the more popular wines and grape varieties ---)

The first experience for many people with Greek wine is Retsina, and I have to admit when I first tried it many years ago I did not like it. In fact I spat out what I had in my mouth and poured the rest of the bottle down the drain–something I’ve rarely ever done. Retsina is definitely an acquired taste. My first general acceptance of it was when I paired it with Greek food–suddenly the heavens opened and it seemed much more agreeable.

Traditionally, Retsina was homemade wine–the commercially bottled version wasn’t available until the 1960s–usually made from the Savatiano grape. There are many stories of its origin but the most likely one is simply that the ancient Greeks, knowing that air was the enemy of wine, used what they had at hand–pine resin–to seal the tops of the amphorae. The pine resin infiltrated the wine, and Retsina was born. Remember too that traditionally Greek wine was always diluted with water (or snow), which would have reduced the pine resin flavor. In fact, even today, should you be served an indifferent house Retsina in a taverna, it is recommended that you add soda water to it.

But Greek wine is much more than Retsina. There are over 300 indigenous grapes in Greece that are used for making wine. Most of us can only name a handful, but I’m sure that with more DNA testing we would find that many of the grapes of Italy, Southern France and Southern Spain originated in Greece under different names. The Greek word for wine–oenos–dates back to the Mycenean Period (1600-1100 BCE), and you will note that it has the same root as most European names for wine.

Traditionally, Greek wines were often (but not always) sweet and aromatic, and they often added herbs, spices and even perfume–a kind of ancient version of vermouth. In ancient times, as already stated, it was said that all wine should be diluted with water. They believed that only barbarians drank undiluted wine and that drinking it could drive you crazy and even kill you.

White grapes dominate with Greek wine but some of their best wines are red. A good place to start might be with Moschofilero (mos-ko-fee-ler-o), a blanc de gris grape with a deep pink skin that produces crisp, aromatic white wines with nice acidity and floral notes of roses and violets. Another popular cultivar is Assyrtsiko (a-seer-ti-ko) which is an appealing, food-friendly multipurpose white. Often found on the island of Santorini, this is bone dry, has a steely minerality and high acidity with hints of citrus fruit and blossom. Pair with calamari, light seafood or Greek salad.

Of the reds the most planted grape is Xinomavro (ksee-no-ma-vro) which translates as ‘acid black.’ Best known from Naoussa in Northern Greece, this is a full-bodied, spicy age-worthy wine with good tannins, and flavors of black olives and dried tomatoes. It can sometimes be rustic, but is often compared to Nebbiolo. Pair with lamb, red meat or meat-based pasta.

Agiorgitiko (ah-yor-yee-ti-ko) is perhaps the most important and noble red. Grown largely in the Peloponnese, it can be made in many styles including a pleasant rosé. Look for soft, spicy cherry notes.

And then there’s Mavrodaphne (mav-ro-tha-fnee) which translates as ‘black laurel,’ and is made largely in the Peloponnese and Ionian islands. When blended with the Black Corinth current grape it produces a delicious fortified wine akin to port, made in the solera style. Mavrodaphne has the added benefit, according to an elderly Greek-American acquaintance of mine, of being an aphrodisiac.

Of course, in trying to appeal to an international market, grapes like syrah, cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay and sauvignon blanc have been introduced to Greek vineyards, and that is fine. But I hope you’ll be inspired to take a chance on their indigenous varieties. With recent investments and new technology we are seeing a rebirth in quality in these wines, as well as a link to the earliest days of wine history.

Yamas!

Bill Stobbs, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Supervisor

Follow me on Twitter @abcwinebills