I'll admit it. I'm smitten. It's what happens when a self-affirmed Euro-wine geek travels to the pre-eminent red wine region of Spain and rediscovers a lost affinity for the area's top grape.  Think of it as a sort of re-kindled wine love affair.

Sure, I've indulged in many fine examples of Tempranillo over the years from virtually everywhere in the world it's produced: Argentina (check!), Washington State (done that!), Australia (you bet, mate!), all parts of the Iberian Peninsula (Si! and Sim!). And while enjoying each and every example (the good ones, of course), I must confess that for the most part, Tempranillo remained an infrequent choice of mine when answering the critical question: What wine will I drink tonight?

Flash backward to June, in the days before the EU debt crisis and World Cup fever sent pulses racing in Espana, my heart was skipping a happy beat as I criss-crossed the Ebro River valley to sample much of Rioja's bounty. From Laserna to Haro, Logrono to Laguardia, Fuenmayor to Oyon, the common thread that holds these diverse terroirs together is this early ripening variety (the name comes from the Spanish term for early - “temprano”).

 

 
Whether delicate with aromatic perfumes in Rioja Alavesa or charmingly plump in Rioja Alta the best wines from these sub-regions displayed the classic black cherry essence of Tempranillo as the central theme. The traditional styles (Crianza, Reserva, Gran Reserva) often up the ante with notes of rose petal, tobacco, coffee, underbrush and spice box, which will appeal to fans of Left Bank Bordeaux and Tuscan Reds while the more modern versions can have violets, cocoa, kirsch, and anise as undertones. Both the traditional and new wave emphasize elegance and balance instead of raw power. Fans of medium-weight and flavorful wines in general (hear that Pinot Noir lovers?) may fancy a stroll here too.

As far as food pairings, these are food wines indeed! The Riojanas love to feature it with lamb but other grilled meats and chorizo are also splendid partners at table. The famous D.O. Piquillo Peppers and hearty vegetable casseroles were mainstays as well. White Asparagus was in season, served with a generous drizzle of the local olive oil. It was the perfect foil for the rare white grape variant, Tempranillo Blanco.

There are other grape varieties that are part of the rich tapestry that is Rioja and worthy of exploration in future posts. There are some interesting developments here. It seems that many winemakers in Rioja are in the process of “rediscovery” too.

Just like this wine lover.

Jim Greeley

Wine Supervisor SW Florida