The spirited debate of old versus new continues in Rioja.  Recent articles in the WA and WS highlight the dynamic flux within Spain’s most iconic wine region.  It’s a great thing for us Rioja fan’s too as there’s never been a better time to taste the compelling expressions from both camps.  The recent Vibrant Rioja promotions held at ABCFWS locations throughout Florida aptly points this out.  Every guest had the opportunity to compare a tasty traditional Rioja expression like Marques de Riscal juxtaposed to the more richly modern interpretation of Bodegas Baigorri.

Well, it’s time to raise the roof for the new guard as we’ve just picked up two terrific bottlings from the upstart in Rioja Alavesa.  Curious where Baigorri winemaker Simón Arina Robles draws his inspiration?  Check out the 2007 Baigorri Vino de Garage ($62.99, 92+ RP).  That’s “garage” as in “garagiste”.  Clearly the influence is equal parts Right Bank Bordeaux and new wave Rioja.  Made with 100% Tempranillo, the fruit for Vino de Garage is sourced from 50+ year old vines and raised in French oak barriques instead of the traditional Rioja practice of using American oak.  And not unlike a really good Saint Emilion, it’s a sexy, yet structured beast.  With enough richness and depth for the long haul, it should make a terrific addition to any serious wine aficionado’s cellar. 

The affinity for yet another French appellation, this time Burgundy, is evident in the 2010 Baigorri Blanco Fermentado en Barrica ($24.99, 90 RP).  But instead of Chardonnay, Simón uses old vine parcels of traditional white Rioja varieties Viura and Malvasia.  As its name suggests, this wine gets the full-on French barrel fermentation plus a sur-lie batonage for 8 months in tight-grained Allier oak.  The result is a remarkably Burgundian take on White Rioja: creamy stone fruits with luscious tropical notes balanced by fine acidity.  It’s a beauty to enjoy right now with Chilean Sea Bass or Halibut topped with a zesty mango salsa. 

Jim Greeley, Wine Supervisor, SW Florida

Follow me on Twitter @ABCWineJimG