Archive for February 2013

Home Archive for February 2013

Beer has come a long way since its first appearance. Years ago beer was nothing more than an agent to induce intoxication and the taste didn’t matter. Today, that thought would make any beer drinker shudder. It’s hard to think that color, aroma and taste were all ignored. But times have changed. This generation, and those that follow, have turned beer into more than just a brewed beverage. It’s a craft that should be understood and appreciated, not chugged and forgotten.

Alongside the aromas and flavors imparted by the beer is the presentation in which the beer is delivered. Ever notice how some beers are served in different glasses than others? It isn’t random. Many brewers design glasses specifically for their beer. Belgian brewers are famous for this. Most recently, the Boston Brewery created a lager glass that retains the temperature and aromas of the beer.

Glassware is often chosen to enhance a beer’s flavor, aroma and appearance. But which glass goes with which beer? Remembering the answer would be a difficult task, and one we’ve made irrelevant with this handy guide to beer glassware.

Pilsner Glass

Typically tapered, a pilsner glass is made to retain the head while showcasing the color and carbonation of the beer. Use this glass for lagers, pilsners, bocks, doppelbocks, schwarzbiers and witbiers.

Mug

A mug generally has thick glass and a handle. It’s a very traditional “man glass” used for one reason: it holds a lot of beer. You should use this glass for IPAs, pale ales, stouts, porters, smoked beer, really anything you’d like to have a large volume of.

Pint Glass

The most common beer glass out there, a pint glass can come in one of two sizes: 16-ounce or 20-ounce. Often there is a bulge grip just above the middle of the glass, and the wide mouth makes for ease of drinking, as well as easy storing. You can use this glass for any beer.

Chalice

A beer glass with a carefully crafted stem. A chalice is made with a wide mouth for head retention; many are etched in the bottom of the glass to create a steady stream of bubbles. This glass is meant for Belgian beers, especially heavy ales.

Stange

For beers that have pleasurable hoppy aromas, use a stange. The cylindrical glass is similar to a Tom Collins glass and should be used to serve bocks, fruit beers, rye beers and rauchbiers.

Flute

This elegant glass is used to flaunt color and carbonation and amplify intensely enjoyable aromas imparted by the beer. It is recommended to serve fruit beers, scharzbiers and champagne beers with a flute glass.

Tulip

Another stemmed beer glass, but this one is shaped like a tulip; the lip, of which, helps to maintain the foam in beers with bigger heads. This glass is also good for showcasing the aroma of the beer. Use to serve American imperial IPAs, Belgian beers and fruit beers.

Snifter

Often used for cognac, this glass is great when you have a strongly aromatic brew. The wide base allows the volatiles of the beer to be captured and concentrated for a fuller nose. Serve dark and pale ales and Russian imperial stouts in a snifter.

It has been a while since I have reviewed a cigar, so I decided to pull an absolute gem out of the humidor. For those of you who have followed my top ten list of cigars under $7, you will already know a little backstory on the Undercrown line of cigars from Drew Estate. They are basically the little brother or cousin of their acclaimed Liga line. If you recall, I rated the Undercrown Gran Toro as the number two cigar in my list. Today, I am going to test drive the Undercrown Corona Viva, a beautiful little 5 5/8 by 46 stick.

It is quite the departure from all the 6x60 monsters stealing all the headlines, but this particular vitola does an excellent job in highlighting all of the complex flavors from the wonderful San Andres Maduro wrapper to the robust flavors of the Nicaraguan Habano and Brazilian Mata Fina filler. The Brazilian Mata Fina is quickly becoming one of my favorite tobaccos. On a recent cigar trip, I got to blend my own cigars and it was the first time I was able to "play" with this spicy yet mildly sweet leaf. It is good enough to make a great puro but also does well with other tobaccos. I blended it with everything from bold Nicaraguan Ligero, to Dominican Cuban Piloto secco. It seemed no matter what I added to the Mata Fina, its wonderful flavor still came through. Enough about my pipe dreams of being a master blender... on to the cigar that was created by true masters of the craft!

Before clipping, I spent several minutes just smelling the cigar. A rich aroma of leather and the woodsy smell of freshly split oak really gets me excited to light this puppy up. A few pre-light draws and I can already taste some soft cocoa and spice notes.

After lighting, the coffee and cocoa flavors become more pronounced. The spice also builds with a mild black pepper flavor, but it is not enough to overpower the sweetness. The well-balanced sweetness floods the palate along with the large volumes of smoke that are the signature of these well constructed Drew Estate cigars.

This stick is a great example of how coronas may be the absolute sweet spot when it comes to cigar size. The wrapper has a tremendous influence over this cigar, but it still allows the Brazilian Mata Fina to shine through. The Sungrown Habano binder from the Connecticut River Valley also contributes to the texture and body of the cigar without getting in the way.

As I finish the first third and move to the midway point the spice flavors increase a little, but the cocoa and coffee flavors don't go away. It continues to produce large amounts of smoke, but still remains cool. I can't emphasize enough on how well blended and constructed this cigar is. A few sips from a glass of Dogfish Head Raison D' Être really bring out the rich mahogany flavors as I complete the final third of this cigar.

This is a cigar that I would encourage everyone to add to their humidor. To me, it is a strong medium-bodied cigar, but for those of you who prefer a milder smoke, don't let that scare you away. After smoking a few, you may determine that the Undercrown deserves a better title than that of little brother to the Liga series. I believe that this one stands on its own and at half the price.

Long Ashes,

Chris Gwaltney

ABC Fine Wine & Spirits regional manager in Jacksonville. Follow him on Twitter @chrisgnole

Being involved in the wine game, I am sometimes asked by the uninitiated, “What’s your favorite wine?” Like almost every other wine lover I find this question impossible to answer. I have dozens of favorite wines and the list can change almost on a daily basis depending on place, food, company, time of day and my own natural disinclination to be pigeon-holed.

Many of us here at ABC Wine Country are fortunate enough to be able to travel the world and taste some of the greatest (and most expensive) wines in existence. And many of us have our own cellars containing some of these great wines. But I must say that even if I had millions in the bank and could drink whatever I pleased I would still be unable to give up many under $10 wines.

As it happens I do not have millions in the bank so, like most of us, I often save the great wines for special occasions and buy wine on a budget for daily use. Fortunately this is not a great problem as there are some absolute beauties out there in the budget range.

For anyone wanting to buy on a budget, I would offer two general—but not inviolable—rules:

1. Stay away from many of the major noble grape varieties such as Cabernet Sauvignon or Pinot Noir. These are expensive grapes to grow. Chances are you won’t find a good one under $15 or a great one under $20

2. Stay away from the (usually big name and often line-priced) brands whose business model is based on market shares rather than making good honest wine with what they’ve got. Of course winemakers and estate owners should live well and make good money. Fortunately many of them also want to craft an enjoyable wine that they can be proud of. Unfortunately a few of them don’t care what goes into the bottle as long as the style and label reflect a current market trend or niche.

So here are a few of my under $10 suggestions

Domaine de Joy (Côtes de Gascogne) – This used to be my house white a few years ago and I still enjoy it. Made from 50% Colombard, 25% Ugni Blanc and 25% Gros Manseng the wine is fresh and crisp with an elegant fruitiness, makes a perfect aperitif or pairs well with all light seafood dishes.

Bernard Magrez Tranquillité Rosé (Vin de Pays D’Oc) – They used to say that dry rosé is a summer drink, but I love it year round! Especially here in Florida – what’s not to love? This one is 100% Grenache and has a beautiful pale pink color with enticing dry fruit. What’s more, it pairs with so many kinds of food – Mediterranean cuisine, cold cuts, picnic foods, grilled fish and salads among them.

Sabor Real Joven (Toro) – Estate bottled from 70 year old vines, this Spanish red is made from Tinta de Toro (Tempranillo). It is lush and spicy and has good body and balance with notes of ripe red berries. The current (2008) vintage received 90 points from Wine Advocate.

Plumeria Moscato D’Asti DOCG – Moscato is a delightful wine but with the sudden demand for it in the marketplace, some unscrupulous companies are frankly putting out some real junk. But never fear! Here is a very pleasant Moscato from the homeland of great Moscato – Asti in the northwest of Italy. Try it
with fresh fruit salad or even in a wineglass over fresh fruit salad.

So there you have it. Maybe in future I’ll keep you posted on more of these inexpensive little beauties. In the meantime, how do I answer when I’m asked what my favorite wine is? Usually I say “Whatever one is in front of me at the moment!” Cheers!

Bill Stobbs, ABC Wine Supervisor

Follow me on Twitter @abcwinebills

Occasionally something that is said or seen on television or the big screen can start a craze of sorts.
We in "the wine business" see this phenomenon occur fairly often. We had tried to persuade our red wine drinking guests for years to give Pinot Noir a try, but to no avail. Then a movie promoting the wonderful attributes of Pinot Noir called Sideways hit the silver screen and we couldn’t keep any Pinot on the shelves.

Wineries in California began pulling up their Merlot vines and replanting with Pinot Noir, even resorting to purchase Pinot Noir from places outside the United States, just to try and keep up with demand until their new Pinot vineyards could bear fruit. This has also happened when a music video
mentions a particular wine, champagne or spirit. The next thing you know a bunch of people barely old enough to drink are in the stores asking where the Cristal, at $275.00 and up, is kept.

Since the advent of the remote control, DVRs and Netflix, companies see that their advertising
dollars are not getting to the consumer, so they are now using television and movies for product placement to make up for the lost advertising viewers. Whether it’s James Bond ordering a bottle of Chateau Angelus in Casino Royale or the Astin Martin he is driving, these companies know they are reaching just the right demographic for their products. I know a guy who recently bought an Astin Martin because ever since he saw Bond driving one, he had to have one…must be nice!

Well, a couple of weeks ago I went into one of our wine stores and the Wine Consultant asked me if we carry any wines from Sardinia. I told him that one of our wine importers, Nadia Galati, has a couple of white wines from that region, but he was asked by one of his guests for a red Sardinian wine called Cannonau. He went on to tell me about a television show hosted by a Dr. Oz…no really, that’s his name. Dr. Oz had talked about how the people from Sardinia, an island of the west coast of Italy, were prone to live a longer than average life. One of the things the people of Sardinia do is drink wine made from the grape Cannonau. This wine has a particularly high level of the antioxidants called polyphenols, that are said to slow the aging process. Well, that’s all the viewers needed to hear and they were out in force looking for this type of wine from Sardinia. So, I got on the phone with Nadia and she explained to me that we were expecting a small shipment of this wine (Santa Maria La Palma Cannonau, $12.99) to arrive in our warehouse at any moment and that it was supposed to be a larger delivery except that some guy on TV called Dr. Oz mentioned the wine on his show and now everyone was looking for it. Needless to say, we are now sold out also and await a new shipment.

Just goes to show the influence of the great and powerful Oz…

Ken Amendola

Follow me on Twitter @abcwinekena

Selecting the perfect cigar can be a very tedious process. One can spend hours reading reviews, Googling ratings and asking the opinion of your local tobacconist. After completing your research, you make a purchase and your quest for cigar induced relaxation is almost complete. You have your ashtray, a lighter and a favorite beverage of your choice. Now, the only thing separating you from two hours of pure bliss is the tobacco on the head of the cigar.

Believe it or not, this is where many people go wrong and destroy all of their hard work up to this point. I recently had one of my stores inform me that they had a guest who had returned several cigars. He had purchased some super premium sticks and claimed that none would stay lit. Of course, we replaced his
cigars, but he then continued to return them. I asked the store if they still had some of these cigars in the humidor and they replied, "yes." I stopped by and lit up one of these suspects. I smoked the first third of the cigar, I know it's a tough job but someone had to do it. Anyway, my test drive was perfect. The cigar had a nice draw, burned evenly, and was exactly everything I expect out this piece of Dominican craftsmanship. Fortunately for me this young man came into the store while I was there. He handed me several of his "bad" cigars. One look at them and I knew exactly why they were going out. Each of the cigars were clipped almost all the way down to the band. I very politely explained to this new smoker the importance of getting the cut right and showed him where the binder leaf started on this particular cigar. He was very appreciative of the advice and to this day when he comes back to our store it is only to buy cigars.

Cigar after being clipped above cap line

By cutting the cigar that far down he clipped the binder leaf, which caused the filler to unravel. This is a very common mistake made by most novice smokers and it is an understandable mistake. Common sense would tell you the bigger the cut, the more smoke you will get. This couldn't be more far from the truth, for when it comes to clipping your cigar, less is better. You should never cut below the cap. This is a circular piece of tobacco that is placed on the top of Parejo on round-headed cigars to complete the
top. If you look closely you can see the line that separates it from the cigar. One should never clip below this mark. If you can't see the cap or are lighting up a figurado or other odd shaped cigar, then just clip off a little to start with. After making your cut, take a few "pre-light" puffs. If you can taste the tobacco and pull air through cigar easily, then it is ready to light. If the cigar seems constricted, then clip a little more. Keep in mind, you can always clip a little more, but you can never add tobacco back.

Now that we know where to clip, what kind of cutter should we use? There are many different types on the market, in many varying price ranges. No matter what type you choose, make sure it is sharp. Dull cutters will pull and tear your cigar. I would also stay away from the single blade guillotines. Even when sharp, they tend to crush the side that is not touching the blade. A double blade should be your only choice of guillotine or open cutters. Some of these come with one side closed which acts as a guide to ensure you don't clip too much. These do take out a lot of the guess work. Don't fret if your cutter doesn't have this safety device. You can copy this action by setting your cutter on a hard surface and pressing the crown of cigar down into the cutter.

Another option is a punch, probably the easiest to use. This is a a circular blade that you insert into the head of the cigar and it makes a perfect, round cut. This is a great option for those who are new to smoking. The only downside to this method is that it only works on round cigars. A punch will do you no good on a Figurado. Also, if you have a large punch and are using it on a very small ring gauge, then you may make too big or too deep of a cut.

Starting the cut

A very popular cutter today is the V. It makes a perfect little V shaped incision in the top of the cigar and the cut offers a nice concentration of taste and flavor on the palate. The downside to the V cutter is when they are dull they really tear the cigar, not to mention they are no good on certain shapes. If you are going to buy a V cutter, make sure you spend the extra money and get a good quality one.

Lastly I would suggest that you stay away from the scissors. Unless you have a steady hand and lots of experience, you can really mangle your cigar and maybe even a finger.

At a minimum, along with a good torch lighter, I suggest that all cigar smokers have in their repertoire a sharp, double guillotine cutter. If you shop around you can find a lighter that has a punch built in. We actually have some of these lighters in stock at ABC.

This is the result of a good cut!

Long Ashes,

Chris Gwaltney

ABC Fine Wine & Spirits regional manager in Jacksonville. Follow him on Twitter @chrisgnole

Homebrewing is a hobby that combines art, science and a touch of pet ownership. Virtually every step in the brewing process is about ensuring the livelihood of your billions of little yeast pets. Sometimes you let them down. But other times, together, you can really make something spectacular. This was the case with my latest experiment.

My last project was a shandy, which is basically a beer with lemons or lemonade. I brewed my shandy using half wheat and half pilsner (barley) malt in order to keep the malty taste light and essentially out of the way for the other flavors I wanted. I added lemon and lime peel and Citra hops for flavor and aroma (I did not add any hops for bittering). I love Citra hops, and I try to use them in anything I can. Citra hops are a manmade cross between far too many hops to list. They are extremely aromatic, taste like tropical fruit/citrus and have enough alpha acid in them to potentially be used for bittering. Finally, I chose a Kolsch yeast because it adds a slightly fruity flavor and comes out really drinkable.

I am a member of HAMS (Homebrew Association of Manatee Sarasota) which is filled with brewers of all different ages and experience levels, so it is a great way to get some feedback. At the last meeting, I stood up and poured my shandy into everyone’s glass. I awaited judgment. A flurry of questions, opinions and suggestions flew at me.

First of all, the appearance was a hazy copper, which is a little strange in a shandy. I was hoping for golden or bright yellow. The smell was by far deemed the best aspect of my shandy. Everyone was picking up different citrus fruits by the in your face lemon-lime aroma. When we got to taste, there were opinions every which way. The club loved the taste, but some had suggestions for future batches. The certified craft beer judges in the group suggested that I pull back on the lemon-lime zest to allow a maltier taste for complexity. One member told me to try and make it a little sweeter, but said not to change a thing.

After the experience, there are a few things that I will change in the next batch. I will use more wheat to both bring out the color I was looking for and add a little bit of sweetness. Then, I will pull back on the lemon and lime peel just a touch and replace with a little more Citra hops because, frankly, I love them. Someday I hope to enter this recipe in a homebrew competition!

Alex Smith is a Beer Consultant on 37th Street in Sarasota.

Follow him on Twitter @abcbeeralexs

It’s been far too long since I last visited Spain. In fact, it was roughly a year and a half ago (funny, it sort of seems like yesterday). The torrid pace here at ABCFWS has kept me preoccupied with thoughts of store remodels, staff meetings and wine tasting events. The remodels were supposed to wrap up in my neck of the woods last year. But inevitable delays and unforeseen consequences pushed five of them into calendar year 2013.

We just put the finishing touches on our North Port location and, without pause, I’m presently in Bradenton starting another one. No complaints, mind you. They’re definitely necessary and the results do speak for themselves. The new concept is a hit with our guests and store staff alike. It makes for a greatly improved shopping experience.

So where was I? Oh, I was talking about returning to Spain. Well, it’s still a couple of weeks away, but I just received the itinerary for my trip with importer Florencio Navarro of The Artisan Collection.

Tempranillo in Rioja Alavesa

Florencio started Quality Wines of Spain back in 2003 in his home country. The Navarro family is from Salamanca and has been in the wine business for generations. He is part of the new guard of Spanish importers focusing on small-production, artisanal estates with an emphasis on terroir. His portfolio comprises some 40 different producers representing 17 denominacións throughout Spain, including in Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Rueda, Campo de Borja, Calatayud and La Mancha (my visit in a nutshell).

Florencio also imports wines from Portugal, France, Germany and South America into the US market.

We currently stock some terrific wines from The Artisan Collection, including the excellent Riojas from Bodegas Baigorri. The trip will be a great opportunity to scout for additional selections for our Direct to You wine program.

Garnacha vines - Campo de Borja

On a side note, my new “toy” should come in handy: just picked up the new Apple iPad Mini to help with blogging and tweeting. It’ll be a welcomed relief not to have to lug my brick-of-a-laptop with me for a change.

As a bonus, I may have a little down time to wander a bit in Pamplona and Madrid as well.

Until then, if I close my eyes, I can almost taste the tapas.

Jim Greeley, Wine Supervisor, SW Florida

Follow me on Twitter @ABCWineJimG

One recent trip to Rhone and Loire, France started out with, anything that can go wrong...will! It started while one of my traveling companions and myself were waiting for our pre-arranged taxi pick-up. After an hour with 3 different taxi companies, we realized no one was coming to take us to the airport. I decided to drive myself and do the long-term parking thing. My companion started to put our luggage in the car, which was running so I could give my I-Phone a charge. Accidentally, the door shut, car running, and the doors locked! It felt like a bolt of lightning struck me. We had 11/2 hours to catch our international flight. Luckily, I had my credit card folder in my pocket (purse locked in car) with AAA service card. Called them, pleading with them to run all traffic lights and come to our rescue before we missed our flight. He got to us in record-breaking time. Off to the airport we went, after reassuring our "hero" that great things were going to be bestowed upon him for his help!

We arrived at the airport, grabbed our luggage and ran to the terminal. Oops! I tripped over my luggage and cut my toe. Now, I have a bloody toe and no time for pity. With the help of a gracious "Delta Doll" she used two machines to print each of our tickets at the same time! We got to the gate as they were boarding. The trip turned out fantastic. After a week of exquisite food and wine, and touring the country-side, we were on our way home. Not being able to sleep on the plane, I couldn't wait to get home and nap. We exited the plane, picked up our luggage without any problems and headed for the car. Where was the car? I know we left it there. Walking every row on all 5 levels with no one in sight to help and the terminal seeming to be miles away, we sat down on our luggage and laughed. We had been searching for the car for over an hour when an angel appeared (disguised as a parking attendant ) in a golf cart and offered assistance. After driving thru the same 5 levels again he realized that the car must be in the "other" parking garage that we didn't know existed. Finally, the car appeared and we were off for the 2 hour ride home, but not until hugs and kisses were exchanged and him promising to hug his grandkids.

Marie Griffin, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits N.W. Florida Wine Supervisor

Wine and place. Of course you can enjoy wine almost anywhere. You can enjoy it in the company of good friends, or you can enjoy it alone, perhaps while meditating on a thoughtful book or listening to music. You can enjoy it with a grand meal, or with a simple repast, or even all by itself. There are a thousand ways to enjoy a glass of wine and they are all good. But somehow the wine you taste while traveling, especially if it is a wine from the area you’re visiting, seems to come alive in a very special kind of way. It seems that while you are traveling your senses become more open to new experience, your taste buds are keener, and your enjoyment is so much greater. The following are a few travel pics from places that have brought out the best in wine for me.

The town of San Gimignano in Tuscany. Yes, it’s almost always crowded with tourists and the shops are certainly there to cater to them, but there is something about the place that entices me even more than the larger ancient towns and cities of Tuscany. I could sit for hours at an outside table, nursing a glass (or two) of Vernaccia di San Gimignano while watching the world go by. Perhaps because it’s more of a town than a city, or perhaps because the countryside all around it is so beautiful and inviting, the place pleases me greatly and the wine brings a warm smile to my face.

It might seem strange to associate the former summer retreat of Adolf Hitler (which he hardly ever visited – he was afraid of heights) with enjoyment. But the view from the Eagle’s Nest, high atop a mountain near Berchtesgaden in Germany close to the Austrian border, is simply stunning. What a place to enjoy a crisp glass of dry Riesling, forget for a moment the horrors of history and look to the mountains for inspiration and solace.

And then there’s Champagne. To sit in the private gardens (sorry, they’re not open to the general public) of the beautiful Belle Époque mansion of Perrier-Jouët in Epernay sipping on those brilliant eponymous bubbles can make you feel as if you have stepped into the color and beauty of an impressionist painting.

Nothing says Spain, to me, like flamenco and fino sherry. I’d listened to flamenco before on disc, but it wasn’t until I saw it live, saw the movement and the swirl of colors and the emotion, that I was hooked. Fueled by a copita or two of delicious fino sherry, I saw a roomful of restless tourists suddenly stop talking as they became entranced by the fire and passion of the dance.

These are just a few photos from my scrapbook and it only covers a few white wines. Maybe sometime ahead I’ll pair red wine and place. I suppose the real secret is to look at every place as a perfect setting for enjoying wine, even if it’s just your front porch or your kitchen or your back yard. If you make place
special, the wine will become special too.

Bill Stobbs, ABC Wine Supervisor

Follow me on Twitter @abcwinebills

Normandy, the place of the Allied D-day invasion of June 6^th1944, is also known for its natural pastures, butter and cheeses (camembert), the island Abbey of Mont Saint Michel and its apple and pear orchards which are the base for the production of cider and Calvados brandy.

Calvados brandy was first distilled in the late 16^thcentury; the association of the Normandy distillers of Calvados was born in the year 1600. Calvados experienced its golden age in the late 19^thcentury after the phylloxera devastation of the vineyards of France and Europe.

There are three appellations for Calvados brandy of which “Calvados” and “Calvados Pays d’Auge” make for 99% of the total production.

“Calvados" (74% of total production of Calvados) comes from the single or double distillation of cider or poiré made from apples and pears. "Calvados Pays d'Auge" (25% of total production) comes from the double distillation of cider made from apples from the Pays d'Auge.

There are 200 varieties of apples, called "cider apples," used for the distillation of Calvados.

Calvados must be aged for a minimum of 2 years in oak barrels which gives it its natural amber color. Younger Calvados brandies tend to be fruit-driven, while older ones gradually lose their apple aroma and flavor as they become smoother. Old Calvados, in my opinion, is an acquired taste and requires more practice.

We have recently added two exceptional Calvados brandies to our fine spirits selection at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits, after extensive research and tastings of many Calvados offerings.

Marquis de Saint Loup, Calvados and Calvados Pays d’Auge are made by Calvados Christian
Drouin, three generations family-owned and one of the best and most traditional distilleries in Normandy. They are a great value at $25.99 for the Calvados and $39.99 for the Calvados Pays d’Auge.

Calvados could be served before dinner as aperitif, in mixed drinks, or most commonly at the end of the meal as digestif. A popular practice in Normandy is the “trou normand” which is having shots of Calvados between main courses during big and long holiday meals.

Atanas Nechkov, Wine Supervisor Central Florida

Follow me on Twitter @abcwineatanas