This is the second blog about the wines from Savoie in the French Alps. Read part one, “Après-ski Wine,” here.

The mountain vineyards of Savoie, surrounded by Alpine lakes and snowcapped peaks, make for some of the most spectacular sights in the wine world. We mentioned earlier that the vineyards under Vins de Savoie appellation are spread around a fairly large area and several communities; the one area that holds the best vineyards and produces the most exciting wines is located south of the town of Chambéry and in proximity of Lac de Bourget. Here we have the most important appellations of Savoie:  Abymes, Apremont, Chignin and the Grand Cru of Chignin Bergeron.

A recent cataclysmic event has shaped the geology of this area and made it unique: one of the world’s largest landslides in history!

Mont Granier is a limestone mountain located between the departments of Savoie and Isère; it has a fairly tall peak at an elevation of 1,933 meters (6,342 ft) above sea level. Its north face overlooks Chambéry.

In the year 1248, on November 24^th and 25^th, a mass of limestone resting on marls slid into the valley, causing a massive landslide that destroyed 7 villages and caused over 1,000 casualties. In fact, most of the vineyards of the appellations Abymes and Apremont lay on the site of the landslide.

On mountain slopes opposite of Mont Granier are located the 79 ha of Grand Cru Vineyards of Chignin Bergeron. Bergeron (from the name of the Bergeron apricot) is the local name for the Roussanne grape of the Rhône Valley.

Our wine team visited the area in June 2013; the most anticipated visit was that of Domaine les Cantates in the village of Chignin. This domain, previously known under the name of Les Fils de René Quénard (the René Quénard family has been farming vineyards in Chignin for over 300 years) was purchased in 2008 by Pierre-Emmanuel Taittinger (Champagne Taittinger), and his wife Claire Taittinger, who’s a native of Savoie.

Claire Taittinger with Emilie Terrier in the vineyards above Chignin

The Bergeron vineyards are located on the south-southwest facing slopes of limestone and marl and are amongst the steepest in the world; in fact one of Domaine les Cantates vineyards may very well detain the record at 70º incline; the vineyard workers are roped when getting onto that one!

Domaine les Cantates owns 11ha of steep vineyards with full southern exposure. The grapes are hand harvested and each parcel is vinified separately. In 2004 the domain was certified sustainable agriculture. 

In the tasting room, our wine experts were immediately seduced by the surprisingly full-bodied and intensely flavored 2012 Chignin Bergeron which was very much at odds with the usual image of light, delicate Savoie white wines. This tank fermented and aged wine delights with its creamy texture and pure and intense aromas and flavors of apricots, pear, stone fruit, spices and a touch of honey. Fresh aromas of field flowers and apricot blossom linger on the long finish.

The 2012 Chignin Bergeron from Domaine les Cantates is available in select ABC Fine Wine & Spirits store for $17.99--a rare find and top quality wine not to be missed!

Santé!

Atanas Nehckov, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Supervisor

Follow me on Twitter @abcwineatanas