We have all heard the cliche, "A little bit of knowledge can be a dangerous thing." When it comes to selecting wine I really don't believe a little bit of knowledge is dangerous but it can limit your possibility of finding a gem.

Take for example Soave. Many of our guests think of Soave as a cheap Italian white wine sold in 1.5 liter bottles for around ten dollars. For the most part they are correct, but there are a handful of top producers that make immensely enjoyable wines. These wines from the quality-driven winemakers go largely unnoticed in our stores because of the tarnished reputation of Soave.

I had the opportunity to visit one of the quality leaders in Soave last month, La Cappuccina. La Cappuccina is a dynamic estate run by three young siblings; Pietro, Sisto and Elena Tessari. The estate is in the picturesque village of Costalunga di Montefort d'Alpone which lies in the central, hilly, classico part of Soave.

Sisto Tessari explained to me that 50 million years ago the hills where his vineyards are located were part of an undersea volcanic mountain range. Why is that important? Sisto went on to explain that the Soave wine production zone is one of the most thoroughly researched in the world. Those ancient lava flows created the dark, mineral rich soil where his vines grow today. "The Soave that is produced here is very different from other parts of the zone."

Sisto Tessari in his cellar under the vineyards.The dark wall behind him is the black basalt rock which bear witness to ancient lava flows.

Great soil alone will not produce great wine. In the vineyard Sisto combines innovation with tradition to obtain low yields. He encourages the vines' roots to compete for nourishment and dig ever deeper into the soil. In addition, since 1985 La Cappuccina has adopted organic production methods. All chemical treatments have been banned in order to guarantee healthier wine and greater respect for the environment.

Next time you are looking for crisp, aromatic, refreshing white wine, try La Cappuccina Soave!

Paul Quaglini

SE Wine Supervisor