A love letter to Zinfandel, Twisted Vine 2009

100_1950 


I don’t care who knows. I love Zinfandel, and of course I mean Red Zinfandel, though I must admit that my love for Zin began with Sutter Home White Zinfandel in the Eighties, as I was “coming of age” (which is just another way to say that I was underage and sneaking wine from my parents’ pantry). This first “Zin Love” was fueled by my earliest addiction, sugar, but I quickly discovered the real Zinfandel at 21, while working at a small wine and cheese shop. Ravenswood made a memorable first impression, enough so that I visited them on a trip out to California in 1992, when “No Wimpy Wines” was their catchphrase. Soon after, I learned of the three “R’s” of Zinfandel: Ridge, Rosenblum and Rombauer (though some people include Ravenswood and drop one of the others). On my most recent trip to Sonoma County back in 2007 I made sure Ridge was on the top of my visitation list, even though we were staying at Alexander Valley Vineyards, whose Sin Zin is also one of my favorites. Ridge, with its old vine field blends will always be a favorite, especially the Lytton Springs, which is consistently good from vintage to vintage.


 I could spend this entire blog listing the Zins I’ve fallen in love with and when (for example, Bogle Old Vine in 1995), or the smaller AVAs that have reignited my passion (Lodi Ancient Vines) but that would take pages and pages. What is it that I love so much about this varietal that was almost supplanted and replaced in the Eighties? If it hadn’t been for White Zinfandel, there might not be as much Old Vine Zin, since planting Cabernet was all the rage back then. Perhaps it was the mystery of the US’s own varietal: Where did it originate? Who brought it to North America? Is it truly the same as Italy’s Primitivo? All of these questions have now been answered since we know it was originally from Croatia and called Crljenak. Most likely Count Harazaty brought some of the first cuttings to California. Zinfandel is genetically identical to Primitivo, though they can be stylistically very different.


 In the warmth of California, Zin reaches heady levels of alcohol like 15% to 16%, and some really ripe Zins, like Rombauer, can border on port-like flavors. It is ripe and juicy enough to drink alone (very appealing to many American wine drinkers) but also has spice and acidity to make it fine to pair with many meals (especially Memorial Day barbecues). I love Zinfandel with grilled steaks, with pork tenderloin, with smoked meats and with spicy chili. Zinfandel matches most vegetarian dishes, and it pairs perfectly with rich, chocolate desserts. That magic combination of extreme jammy and spicy flavors reflects an American orientation: soft yet potent.


 Recently I tried the new vintage of the Twisted Vine Lodi Zinfandel, and it had so much of what I love and have just mentioned (not a wimpy wine), but it also had another favorite Zin characteristic for me: its price. At about $12 per bottle, this wine is a steal, and compared to other California varietals like Cabernet and Pinot Noir, Zin is still a great value with great quality. Make some barbecue, sweet, smoky and spicy, and pair it with this 2009 Twisted Vine Zin, since it has real smoke and spice characters, with just enough fruit to find a balance. Grill some balsamic-marinated Portobello mushrooms to throw on a spinach salad and discover how the blackberry and boysenberry ripeness, coupled with spice and young oak, make the meal come together in a very special, almost nostalgic way, and then come back and try ALL the other Zins we sell at ABC Fine Wines and Spirits. Enjoy!


 


Guest blogger Daniel Eddy is the Wine Consultant for ABC in Gainesville, Florida


You can read more of his wine writings at Examiner.com for Gainesville: http://www.examiner.com/wine-pairing-in-gainesville/daniel-eddy



Share this:

CONVERSATION

0 comments:

Post a Comment