I hear this description quite a bit, and I was never sure it was meant as a compliment or as something to say because there was nothing else to say about the wine. It is almost like using that sweet Southern expression “Bless her heart” when what they really mean is “she meant well, but I wouldn’t have done it that way.”

 My issue with this expression (“nice little wine”) is the word ‘little,’ which I think means, at least in this context, of no real consequence…..not important. Do you agree? Many tasters distill wines they have no interest in down to these four little words.

I wonder sometimes if the word little is directed at the wine’s body, the wine’s importance, or the wine’s price. If ‘little’ is aimed at a particular wine’s price, maybe the wine offers good bang for the buck, nice price/quality ratio? Not a bad thing!

 If ‘little’ is aimed at the wine’s importance (more likely the wine’s unimportance) which is to say it is well made, but does not compare in any way to big, important wines, then I suppose it could be a compliment. Important wines are only that way because they are recognized, but as the price of these important wines continue to rise beyond most consumers’ means, many of us are looking for either alternatives or the next level of quality behind the big guys. Can’t afford 1^st Growth Bordeaux anymore, even the super seconds are unattainable, so people begin to look at whatever else Bordeaux has to offer in place of those important wine…..the wines that used to be ‘the little wines’!

 Lastly, if ‘little’ is aimed at the wine’s body, weight or size (I think most tasters mean this when they say those words) then it is no longer complimentary, but I think insulting to the wine. Sadly, I add, because what it really means is that a wine’s quality needs to be based on its weight, level of alcohol, extract, etc. How untrue is this! Elegant wines are easy to overlook, especially when you taste many wines at a time. The bigger wine always wins: more body, more oak, more ooohs and ahhhs….and the winner is….

 The mega-ripe, huge wines are certainly show stoppers, but that style (Yes, it is a style, a conscious decision by the winemaker) I think is mostly popular in America. Once the wine has impressed everyone, what do you do with it? I know…..put it in your cellar and watch it mature while in the meantime, you open wines you actually enjoy drinking, having at the table, matching with foods….yep, you guessed it, those little wines.

 While we are on the subject, check out this gem:

 CHÂTEAU DE MACARD: Bordeaux Supérieur 2009

ABC Price $12.99

Wine Spectator rating: 90

‘Ripe and dense, but fresh, with silky-textured plum, blackberry and blueberry fruit carried by sweet spice and maduro tobacco notes. The fleshy finish shows nice drive. Should open up more with brief cellaring. Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. ‘

 Shayne Hebert, Central Florida Wine Supervisor