Day 2 (Part 3): Bodegas Nekeas

We leave Zaragoza late in the afternoon and head north to Navarra.  The destination is the valley of Valdizarbe, the northernmost wine-growing district in the region.  Our group arrives at Bodegas Nekeas in the little village of Anorbe about two hours later.  Dusk is fast approaching and we barely have 30 minutes to tour through the vineyards before the sun sets. 

The winery’s energetic winemaker, Concha Vecino, eagerly greets us and then climbs aboard the motor coach to conduct an impromptu tour of the El Chaparral vineyard and its old vine parcels of Grenache.  Valdizarbe is in the foothills of the Pyrenees and the chill in the air leaves little doubt that we’re in Northern Spain.  Even in the fading light (and with my camera’s iris wide open in a futile attempt to genuinely capture the scenery) the valley’s stunning beauty is evident: freshly mown golden wheat fields juxtapose verdant green olive groves, shimmering almond trees and waves of old gnarly grape vines all framed by a pastel blue and pink sunset.  Shangri-La indeed!

This historical significance of the place is apparent too, as we pass old monastic buildings on our way back to the winery.  The valley is along the famous Camino de Santiago (Way of Saint James) route used by pilgrims since medieval times.  Guidebooks of the day, perhaps the 12th century equivalent of the Michelin Guide, advised road-weary travellers to stop here and slack their thirst with the local wine.  As the sun completely disappeared over the horizon, thoughts returned to my own parched throat as other members in the group were beginning to contemplate a little “thirst slacking” of their own. 

At the winery, Concha leads us through a sampling of her Vega Sindoa wines including the amazingly pure and elegant El Chaparral (named for the Chaparro oak trees in the vicinity).  Vega Sindoa also makes juicy examples of cool climate Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Viura and Tempranillo. 

What follows the tasting is another orgy of incredible food: Chorizos, Piquillo Peppers, Patatas Bravas, fresh local tomatoes and endives drizzled with Concha’s very own olive oil and a slab of beef so large it would make any carnivore drool with envy.  Prepared asado style with just a liberal sprinkling of coarse sea salt, these giant bone-in rib-eyes were seared perfectly and served a beautiful medium rare.  A tasty progression of Vega Sindoa wines were presented with each course.   

 

Somewhere near midnight we bid our gracious hostess a heartfelt buenas noches nuestra amiga as we head back to Zaragoza for one final night.  No doubt some of us aboard were dreaming dulce suenos on the return trip.  Our journey into the heart of Espana would continue.

Coming Next Time: Rioja Revisited

Jim Greeley, Wine Supervisor, SW Florida