When I first got into the wine business, it seemed that all Sauvignon Blancs were “grassy,” or vegetal in taste and aroma. This was not very pleasing to many people. Today, we have options that seem to run to citrusy flavors like grapefruit. Something must have changed!

In part, though, this characteristic was largely defined by the location the wine was produced, as well as by what wine drinkers had easy access to. In recent years we have been exposed to more Sauvignon Blanc wines, from all over the world, than ever before. In the past, the Sauvignon Blanc selection was minimal; now, most countries each have a nice selection.

Another factor has to do with the craft of winemaking itself. In the early 1980s, winery and viticulture people got together and agreed to minimize the grassy, vegetal style in their wine, hoping to improve their appeal to wine drinkers.

They found out that Sauvignon Blanc grapes that grow in cooler regions need to be exposed to more sun. By trimming and pruning the vines and leaves, they eliminate the vegetative note (think canned asparagus).

Remember, all grapes are affected by climate, soil, or what the French refer to as “terroir.”  Sauvignon Blanc has a unique taste profile in the different places it’s cultivated.

In the Loire Valley, France, where there is a cool climate, grapes don’t ripen as fully, resulting in high acidity and lower alcohol. Sauvignon Blanc here is labeled as Sancerre or Pouilly-Fume. These wines tend to have lean, crisp flavors like grapefruit, lemon and grass. When people ask for Sancerre or Pouilly-Fume, they expect this wine to have this flavor profile. Loire’s soil, which is chalky, creates a flinty, minerally taste.

In warmer climates, such as California, Sauvignon Blanc grapes reach a fuller degree of ripeness which means more alcohol and less acidity. The flavor profile for these wines is richer with pear, melon, fig, and if oak is used, toast flavors.

Sauvignon Blanc from New Zealand has been described as “cat pee on a gooseberry bush,” which is actually an herbaceous, green fruit quality, and quite enjoyable!  You must also take into consideration the marl soil New Zealand has, which gives the Sauvignon Blanc its bright grapefruit flavors.

Bordeaux Sauvignon Blancs have herbaceous notes in the wine due to gravely soil.

Summing up the Sauvignon Blanc “thing,” you need to remember wine-makers use their “bag of tricks” and modern technology to produce wine that is appealing to us. But, with all this, you still need to take into consideration where the wine is from and choose accordingly.

Marie Griffin, Northwest Florida wine supervisor