Seeking Roads Less Travelled
“…Two roads diverged in a wood, and I— | |
I took the one less traveled by, | |
And that has made all the difference.” |
Growing up, the poem “The Road Not Taken” was a sentimental favorite. Paths chosen and their consequential permutations do echo and resonate, even in mid-life. Regrets? Perhaps I’ve had a few, but it’s been rare when it comes to the subject of wine. Taking the unconventional route can reap its rewards.
Choosing between just another New World Cabernet and an obscure little red like Mencia, for example, is certainly akin to selecting the road less travelled. Here’s a little Spanish variety with plenty of personality and worthy of discovery. It’s unique to the northwest of Spain, grown in the regions of Bierzo, Valdeorras, Monterrei and Ribeira Sacra, right in the heart of Galicia. Once purported to being a cousin of Cabernet Franc (an assumption since disproven), Mencia produces a medium-bodied, savory red with juicy raspberry and currant fruit. It usually has a hint of tobacco leaf, bay, cumin or red spice, and sometimes olive tapenade. Not surprisingly, it makes a great partner with grilled lamb or deeply flavored cuts of beef like hangar steak.
Because of the slate and granite sub-soil, in the denominacion of Bierzo, Mencia usually has a pleasant, earthy minerality to the wine. The same can be said for neighboring Valdeorras. I’ve been fortunate to enjoy Mencia on its home turf at Bodegas Avanthia. Talk about a wine epiphany!
For a terrific introduction to Mencia at a bargain of a price, wander off the beaten wine path and seek out a bottle of La Mano Mencia Roble. You’ll find it for $8.99 at your local ABCFWS store location.
Jim Greeley, Wine Supervisor, SW Florida
Follow me on twitter @AbcWineJimG
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