A Trip to Acetaia Villa San Donnino

The nose was full of raisins, carmel and oak. The taste was as complex as any wine I have ever tasted with sweet, tart, smoky richness that take years to develop. This elixir was thought to be capable of prolonging life and curing ills by the monks who made it 700 years ago. No I'm not speaking about wine today but rather "Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena."


Last month while making our way from Verona to Florence, Chris Thompson from Alberello Imports suggested we make a detour to the beautiful city of Modena and visit an acetaia. It was here at Acetaia Villa San Donnino that I learned what a truly unique product "Traditionale" balsamic vinegar is.


There are three categories of balsamic vinegar: traditional, condiment grade and commercial grade. Commercial balsamic vinagar starts with red wine vinegar to which reduced grape juice and flavorings are added. These mimic the sweetness and tartness without the complexity or price of the real thing.


Condiment grade undergoes the same process as traditional but with less ageing. It is less syrup-like than traditional, and it's milder flavor leads to a broader range of flavors.


Traditional balsamic vinegar is used exclusively as a finishing touch to a dish. Thick as syrup and dark as espresso, traditional balsamic vinegar has an amazing range of scents and flavors.


Traditional is made from only the finest trebbiano grapes grown in the provence of Modena and Reggio-Emila. Before the alcoholic fermentation process, the must is boiled until its volume is reduced by 30-60%. After that the must is left to cool and settle and then poured into wooden barrels, and subsequently into smaller and smaller ones for at least the next 12 years. Only after it is certified by the consortium that regulates the process can it be bottled and sold as Aceto Balsamico Tradizionale di Modena.



IMG_1134Some families pass containers of Tradizionale down through generations, and the casks are only opened at momentous occasions like a wedding.


In Modena they use Tradizionale in many different ways, but my favorite is to simply put a few drops on some flakes of Parmigiano Reggiano cheese and experience one of the world's best foods.


Paul Quaglini, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Supervisor


Follow him on Twitter @abcwinepaulq



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