“It’s all in the stones.” I was told this 11 years ago, the last time I visited Chateauneuf-du-Pape at another great Chateau, Beaucastel. This time I’m at Chateau Cabrieres, just a stone’s throw away from Beaucastel. Though these huge galets, stones, cannot be thrown very far at all. Also called silex, these local rocks that define the geology of this part of the Southern Rhone Valley are almost boulders, some the size of American footballs. Most are about the size of a softball or ostrich egg, and they are special for absorbing the sun’s heat during the day to radiate back to the plant at night, protecting the vines from the wickedly cool wind off of the French Alps. The mistral and the galets are key to the terroir of this locale. The wind protects the plants from pests and mildew, keeping air temperatures cool and allowing for more acidity in the grapes. The stones give enough warmth to keep alcohol levels naturally high, giving us the perfect balance for world-class wines.

The “New Castle of the Pope” is just a ruin of one wall, but the real legacy was in the surrounding vineyards. Chateau Cabrieres translates as “Castle Goat Farm” and the Arnaud Family have been the caretakers for many years. Agnes Arnaud Vernier, current proprietor, and her son Arnaud Vernier, along with their young winemaker, Clement, hosted us for an amazing tour of the estate and cellars, rich with history and tradition. Clement guided us through a tasting of current vintages before dinner. Our dinner included some history and tradition as well, as we were treated to their Chateauneuf-du-Pape wines from older vintages, including their Prestige 2007, 1992, 1982 and 1973. That was quite an education in the aging potential of these wines, which include all 13 of the allowable varietals, starting with Grenache, Syrah and Mourvedre. Their vineyards include 90-to 100-year-old vines, though the average for their Prestige Vineyard Grenache vines is about 70-years-old.

We knew it was going to be a special visit when we saw a rainbow arcing over Mount Ventoux beyond the vineyards while we explored the ancient vines.

We continued our education with a tour of the ancient cellars (which we all decided would be an incredible place to host a Halloween party, with natural cobwebs, antiques and black mold). Our tasting began with barrel samples of the 2013, with only about 7 to 8 months in barrel. 2013 was a difficult year, we discovered, with a shorter growing season. The wine had great ruby color—lighter tones than usual but still had a big, mineral-laden nose. For being so young this wine showed some austere density that will evolve and soften in time, as we saw when we compared the 2012 and the 2011 vintages. All of these wines were sampled with a side of charcuterie, local cured meats including their local version of prosciutto, called jambon de Bayonne, a spicy sausage, and their own black olive tapenade. The older vintages were reserved for dinner.
For pure pleasure’s sake, my favorite was the 2007 Chateau Cabrieres Prestige, with optimum aging, which perfectly balanced minerality with softer fruit, like plums and red cherries. The garrigue, which describes the rocky herbal qualities of the terrain as well as the complex flavors in the wine, came out in this perfectly aged vintage. The 1992 showed softer notes, due to greater aging, but still had fruit as well as density on the palate, considering it was over 20 years old. We were all surprised at how much fruit remained in the 1982, though the color shifted to rusty red, and the flavors bordered on dried fruits and smoked herbs. We compared these multiple vintages and how each paired differently with different components of our meal.
Our dinner was of local grilled sausages and local boar, grilled on the wood of old grape vines, partnered with Agnes’ own recipe of Provence’s ratatouille. Eggplant, tomatoes, onions and peppers, roasted to perfection, but she served it cool, since we were basically dining al fresca, in the open tasting room. Our dinner finished off with some great French cheese and a dessert of a yogurt/crème fraîche confection topped with a caramel maple glaze. The camembert paired especially well with the oldest vintage, the 1973, made when I was only five years old.
Something about the creamy pungent cheese merged perfectly with the rusty-hued aged Chateauneuf-du-Pape. That is what I like to call drinking history.
All of the Cabrieres wines garner great scores from vintage to vintage but are still affordable for Chateauneuf-du-Pape (under $40 per bottle). They also produce an outstanding Cotes-du-Rhone Villages red that is under $20 per bottle, sourced just outside of the Chateauneuf-du-Pape boundary, so you can get the flavors favored by the French Popes, but at about half the price. These wines would pair with a whole range of dishes from classic lamb (with garlic and rosemary) to grilled eggplant, or to even lighter smoked pork options. If you can get an older vintage, do, since they have such incredible longevity, but even the current releases, the 2009s and 2010s are drinking beautifully right now. Remember, “It’s all in the stones.”
Daniel Eddy
Wine consultant at ABC Fine Wines and Spirits Gainesville and Wine Pairing Examiner for Examiner.com.
Follow me on Twitter @abcwinedane.