Once upon a time, before Pinot Noir became the latest darling of the US red wine consumer, there existed another trendy, must-drink grape.  Riding the buzz of a world media blitz, this variety became so fashionable that it changed the landscape of American wine for a spell.  Throughout the decade of the 90s, it was the voguish choice.  And yet, barely five years into the new millennium, this grape had been demoted to has-been status; a victim of overproduction, popular culture and a Hollywood movie script.

Of course, I’m referring to Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon’s less tannic sibling.  Its rise and fall atop the wine world is familiar: bursting onto the US wine scene in a big way as the result of a 60 Minutes TV episode touting the healthful benefits of red wine and later falling victim to the Pinot Noir craze courtesy of director Alexander Payne’s bawdy wine country flick, Sideways.  Hollywood films aside, circa 2005 Merlot had begun to flail in the all-important quality-to-price-ratio:  a result of too many overpriced offerings and overplanting in dubious vineyard locations, especially in California.  Its decline in popularity was inevitable.

Fast forward to today (coincidently the 10^th year anniversary of Sideways) and Merlot is once again emerging as a relatively good wine value, if you know where to look.  Bargain hunters should start their search in Chile where old vine fruit is plentiful and a decent monetary exchange doesn’t hurt either.  Venerable Winery Concha y Toro excels here with its Casillero del Diablo Merlot, a good deal at $8.99. 

Personally, I believe that Washington State consistently makes America’s best versions of Merlot.  The Evergreen State’s reference point winery, Chateau Ste. Michelle, makes several good examples including its basic CSM Columbia Valley Merlot ($15.99) and CSM Indian Wells Merlot ($18.99).  I particularly like the Columbia Crest H3 Horse Heaven Hills Merlot ($16.99).             

Looking for something a bit more boutique?  Try some of Washington’s small-production offerings like Bergevin Lane’s Wild Child ($29.99) or Owens & Sullivan’s The Tusk ($48.99).  These wines typically offer lush black fruits with fresh bouquets and fine structures, which makes them approachable in their youth but also good candidates for the wine cellar. 

Speaking of wines that are ideal for aging, Merlot’s ancestral home of Bordeaux is undoubtedly best in this regard.  We still a have fair amount of the excellent 2010 vintage on hand, and recent arrivals of the very good 2011s are beginning to round into form too.

Feret Lambert limestone cellar

It is true that the top Bordeaux wines are now relatively expensive.  However, many petit chateaux from the Right Bank still offer solid value.  Look for wines from the appellation of Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux as well as the regional Bordeaux Superieur designation.  Check out the terrific new release of Chateau Feret-Lambert ($18.99) for a glimpse of how complex this varietal can be, grown on limestone soil and vinified by the right hands. 

Valerie & Henri Feret with Brad Lewis

I had the pleasure of meeting Henri and Valerie Feret at their estate in Grezillac during en primeur week in April.  Their wine (which contains 10% Cabernet Sauvignon) is aged in French barriques in an underground limestone quarry located on the property.

Jim Greeley, SW FL wine supervisor

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