On my recent visit to Burgundy, France, I noted a generational shift with a few of our regular Burgundy producers. Generation next has truly taken over. Sons and daughters, in their twenties and thirties, have taken over from their baby boomer parents. They bring the vigor of youth, and gasp, new ideas, to one of the most traditional winemaking areas in the world, a tradition going back to Roman times. Balancing tradition and innovation is always the key in a changing world wine market.

We stayed about four days in Burgundy, at a hotel in Beaune, the center of some of the most famous wine appellations. Generally called the Côte d’Or (or “Golden Slope”), this heart of Burgundy is split into the northern Côte de Nuits and the southern Côte de Beaune. The former specializes in Pinot Noir while the latter focuses on Chardonnay. Only when there, looking at the rolling hills, and the tiny towns nestled between them, can you understand the special nature of this appellation. You see that the Grand Cru vineyards are never in the valley, nor at the top of the hill. This Grand Cru “golden mean” is about midway up the slope (perfect drainage and exposure), and only twenty feet away is not Grand Cru. Classification can change from row to row. Talk about history.

On the southern edge, in the town of Chassagne-Montrachet, we visited Thierry Pillot, who has taken over from his father Paul Pillot producing wines with much acclaim. Young and hip, wearing jeans, he led us to his wine cellar to pop some corks. My personal favorite we sampled was the 2012 Chassagne-Montrachet, which showed incredible elegance, soft and supple, yet framed with perfect acidity. His balance in this wine was impressive. Luckily for my pocketbook, I also enjoyed his more affordable options, including his Bourgogne Chardonnay, which is available at ABC for $22 per bottle. We all called it a “poor man’s Montrachet” since it was sourced from vineyards very close to his property in Chassagne. At first whiff I got a sense of Fig Newtons in a pine forest, followed by a creamy texture and razor sharp precision. Thierry also makes an unoaked Aligoté, with pine and cedar notes on the nose, bright acid and a crisp, pithy finish. In France, Aligoté is classically used to make a Kir (by adding some Crème de Cassis) and the sweet black currant helps to balance the bright acid of this varietal.

Ballot-Millot winery in Meursault, a little north towards Beaune, has a three hundred year tradition in this town. Charles Ballot, the son, has garnered much praise for his modern style Burgundies, and there is a hip, coolness about him, not at all stuffy as he takes us through his “man cave” with a billiards table, a big screen TV and a motorcycle, past the kid’s toys, to his cellar where we enjoyed a family dinner with Charles and his wife Annabelle (and their Boston terrier named iTunes). He showed us just how well his white Burgundies age. The 2002 Meursault “Les Criots” was outstanding, and it paired perfectly with some of their local cheeses, like the Citeaux, made by local monks, and the infamous Epoisses.

Charles Ballot in his vineyard

His Aligoté, one of the other approved white varietals in this region besides Chardonnay, was my favorite, since Charles uses 100% oak to bring out a softer richness. Yes there was green apple and quince notes, but a rounder mouthfeel to mellow the bright acid. My other favorites were his Meursaults, which were ripe and rich Chardonnays. Plenty of butteriness, but without the over the top butterball flavors of some of California’s best. These wines maintain their bright acidity, and that differentiates Burgundy. His Bourgogne Chardonnay was sourced 70% Meursault and 30% Puligny. So for $23 you are getting some pretty impressive juice. I got hints of vanilla on the nose, plus figs and kiwis, with a perfect richness on the palate, buttery but still elegant and bright. Charles likes to use a little more oak than Thierry, each letting their own style redefine their wines without forgetting their traditions. Both are open to a little experimentation, even using some American Oak on occasion, but they know their terroir, which is their history.

I was excited to find the special nature of each of their “generic” Burgundies, which were anything but generic. Both of these young men are ready to take over their family traditions, and are not afraid of modern techniques, but are not limited to them either. Both talked about 2012, which was a tricky vintage, with two major hailstorms early in the season. Limited quantity but great quality, and I recommend buying them as soon as you can, before the Wine Spectator scores come out and they’re gone. 

Daniel Eddy

Gainesville Wine Consultant for ABC Fine Wines and Spirits

Wine Pairing Examiner for Examiner.com

Follow me on Twitter @abcwinedane