Archive for September 2014

Home Archive for September 2014

“The Cabernet is in near-perfect condition as we head into the second half of September, and we are contemplating an early finish to what promises to be a spectacular vintage,” so says Kristin Belair, winemaker of Napa Valley’s Honig Winery. There are still a number of meteorological events (i.e. rain, cold etc.) that could put a damper, no pun intended, to this otherwise exceptional vintage. As a whole, the winemaking community in Napa Valley is very excited about the growing season up this point, and with the memories of the two more difficult 2010 and 2011 still lingering, their thoughts are of the very successful 2012 and 2013 vintages. 2012 is being lauded as a classic vintage in Napa Valley with perfectly ripened grapes that possess a wonderful balance of acids and sugar. What is especially gratifying to the many talented winemakers in Napa, is the return to normal quantities of harvested fruit. In 2013, the yields at harvest were also in the normal range, and the harvest was actually completed a couple of weeks earlier than in past decades. The full story of 2013 is yet to be told. It does hold much promise and could potentially produce very high quality wines, only time will tell.

Nearly ripe Cabernet Sauvignon at Napa Valleys' Stags Leap Wine Cellars.

In 2014, much of the valley’s Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc, which was started in early to mid-August, is now complete, with Merlot, Chardonnay, Zinfandel closely nearing the end of their harvest. Cabernet Sauvignon is in full swing throughout the rest of Napa Valley, and by all accounts, this vintage potentially will be as heralded as 2012. Hopefully what I said earlier about the possibility of rain at this point of the season, which could damage the valleys pride n’ joy Cabernet Sauvignon, doesn’t occur…remember 1998? How ironic that I am worrying about the chance of rain, when California has been in near drought conditions for more than two years. That speaks to the individual terroir that you will find in the state's (country's) most famous wine region. We will just have to hold our breath and hope that nothing bad happens from now until the all the Cab is in, because everything about California wines seems to be better when Napa Valley has one of its stellar vintages.

Ken Amendola, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits wine supervisor

Follow me on Twitter @abcwinekena

One of the great pleasures of wine exploration is discovering something new and exciting that you have not tried before. If you are a fan of southern Italian grape varieties, (Nero d'Avola, Primativo or Aglianico) then I have something unique, intriguing and downright delicious for you to try.

Ippolito 1845 Colli del Mancuso Ciro Rosso Classico Superiore Riserva is one of those wines you will fall in love with. And as if the name of the wine is not enough of a mouthful, it is produced from the native Gaglioppo (pronounced "gahl-YO-poh") grape.

OK, I know this one will take a little explaining so here you go. Colli del Mancuso comes to us from the Calabria region of Italy. This little known region forms the toe of the boot of Italy. This long mountainous region is a peninsula bounded by the Basilicata region to the north, the Tyrrhenian Sea to the west and the Ionan Sea to the east. Even though ancient Greeks introduced wine to the region in the sixth century B.C., modern Calabria has only recently been recognized as a serious wine producer.

Widely recognized as one of the best in Calabria, Ippolito 1845 is the oldest and most respected producers in the region. Founded in 1845, today the fifth-generation winemaker Vincenzo Ippolito and his brother Gianluca oversee the family business and are determined to elevate the status of Calabrian wines.

Ciro, (pronounced "cheer-oh") is the DOC within Calabria where the Gaglioppo grapes produce a ripe, generous red with soft tannins.

When you come into our stores looking for a bottle of Colli del Mancuso Ciro Rosso Classico Superiore Riserva DOC it's not necessary to use the full name. Just ask for that wine from Calabria or Ciro or Gaglioppo (it's fun to say), and you'll be on your way to enjoying a great bottle of wine. Ruby red in color with elegant perfumes of wild cherries and plums. The wine has a spicy exotic nose and is full-bodied with silky tannins.

Paul Quaglini, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits wine supervisor

Follow me on Twitter @abcwinepaulq

I thought that this morning would be the perfect opportunity to preview one of our newest cigars that should be hitting our humidor shelves soon, La Aroma de Cuba Robusto. This new addition is one of many that we will be introducing from Ashton Cigars, a company known for its consistency and quality. In an age where many cigar makers are focused on bringing out new items each year and creating a “what’s new” culture in the industry, Ashton focuses on making sure that they maintain the high level of quality that cigar lovers have come to expect from them. It is one of the few booths at the IPCPR Trade Show that one will not be bombarded with a dozen or so new cigars, newly found rare tobaccos or fancy line extensions.

One of their great lines is the La Aroma de Cuba. This one recently went through a few changes and is now being made by famed cigar-maker and master blender Jose “Don Pepin” Garcia in his Estelí, Nicaragua factory. The La Aroma de Cuba was once a Cuban cigar that was produced in the 19^th century. Today, its Cuban seeded Nicaraguan tobacco helps pay homage to those roots.

The first thing that grabs your attention on this stick, other than the gorgeous wrapper, is the ornate band. It's classic, elegant and a perfect representation of how the cigar tastes.

I get some nice spice notes to start the cigar, though the pepper isn’t as intense as one would expect from a Nicaraguan filled stick. The coffee and cocoa make an early appearance, thanks to the Connecticut Broadleaf wrapper, and along with some toast and woodsy flavors make the smoke very creamy. Although the pepper notes are intensified on the retrohale, as they usually are, the black pepper notes are otherwise blended nicely with the other flavors.

As I am enjoying this cigar for breakfast, the strength is coming off as medium to full-bodied, but I think that as an after-dinner smoke this would back down to a solid medium. As I wind down the cigar, I detect more cocoa and sweetness, but a quick exhale through the nasal passage quickly gives me a dose of hot pepper. I didn’t get any drastic changes in flavor as I smoked this cigar, it was just a solid combination of the flavors mentioned above throughout the smoke with sweetness picking up at the end.

I strongly suggest this smoke to seasoned veterans as well as new smokers as there is enough to satisfy both palates. Now, if I only had an omelet filled with cheese, spicy sausage, and jalapenos, my morning would be perfect. Wow, I may have just decided what I will be having for Sunday brunch.

Long Ashes,

Chris Gwaltney, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits North Florida regional manager, Certified Tobacconist and Cicerone Beer Server

Follow me on Twitter @abccigarchris.

One of the world’s most widely planted varieties, Grenache has a story to tell, a story embedded in some of the best known wine regions in Europe. Believed to originate in the region of Aragon in northern Spain Grenache spread throughout Europe under the Crown of Aragon, first to Catalonia and Navarra (Rioja came much later, and for different reasons) then on to the Roussillon in S. France and to Italy, most notable the island of Sardinia. With well over fifty different synonyms, the Grenache is anything but fickle. It is a late-ripening varietal, so it favors hot climates. It finds this favorable climate in Spain and Southern France, as well as in California and Australia.

One of Grenache’s assets is its ability to produce an abundant crop in these hot surroundings, where many Vitis Vinifera would not survive. The downside to this is that Grenache tends to offer low acidity, low tannins, questionable color and the undesirable ability to oxidize prematurely. To off-set this, blending in many of the regions where Grenache reigns is a must. Grenache also matures with relatively high sugars, so higher levels of alcohol can be expected. This is a benefit in the production of high octane, sweet dessert style wines, which would explain why it is the grape of choice for some of the Vin Doux Naturels in France (Banyuls, most importantly) and historically was the grape of choice in Australia for their Port inspired wines.

In Spain, Grenache began in Aragon and found its way throughout the northwest before passing over the Pyrenees into the French Roussillon region. Only since the early nineteenth century, after phyloxera had devastated much of European vineyards and extensive replanting began did Grenache (and its ability to work well in a blend) become a player in Rioja. But in southern Aragonia, in wine regions like Campo de Borja and Calatayud, Grenache (Garnacha in Spain) is top dog, and often unblended. It is in wines such as these that Spain holds firmly to the title of Greatest Wine Values of the World. An excellent example of the Spanish take on Grenache is Cistum 2009 ($17) (Robert Parker 92 points) from Navarra--115 year old vines! Intense and concentrated red berry and spice fruit.

In Australia, Grenache was one of the first Vinifera to arrive, and quickly became the backbone to the fledgling Aussie wine industry. At this point, the industry certainly was not quality oriented, but quantity...and Grenache was the man for the job. Today, however, Grenache does quite well, especially in areas like Mclaren Vale, either unblended or mixed with Shiraz and sometimes Mourvedre (GSM).

French Grenache often comes to you disguised and many things, few called Grenache. Since Grenache was introduced into the Roussillon, it is easy to see how it also became dominate in the Languedoc, then the Southern Rhone Valley, then (fortunately for rose lovers like me) on to Provence. Beginning near the border with Spain, Grenache is responsible for the wines of Banyuls (sweet) Collioure (dry) and blended in many of the A.O.P. wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon (Coteaux du Languedoc, Corbières AOC, Faugères, Minervois AOC, Fitou and Saint-Chinian). Then you come to the Rhone. Grenache is widely planted and accounts for a large proportion of nearly every wine, from the regional Cotes-du-Rhone, including the Cotes-du-Rhone Villages wines and the venerable Chateauneuf-du-Pape (where Grenache, one of 14 permitted varietals, can be as high as 80-100% of the blend). This explains why Chateauneuf-du-Pape has the highest minimum alcohol requirements of any wine in France, and it is here you will also find many, many 100+ year old Grenache vines. Try Le Grenache de Magellan 2011 ($14) with focused raspberry and pepper notes, good spice and a touch of leathery earth.

Once the grape has conquered the Pyrenees and spread across S. France, it was only a matter of time before Grenache reached Italy. A country with more indigenous varietals than formaggi (just kidding, I never counted), the last thing Italy needed was another red grape. Not so on the island of Sardinia. Locally known as Cannonau, the wine as Cannonau di Sardegna, this particular incarnation of Grenache gained worldwide acclaim a few decades back, when their wine, along with Madiran (red wine from the village of Madiran in SW France, made from the Tannat variety) was found to contain much higher levels of resveratrol and the polyphenol procyanidin. Wine for health, none better than the Cannonau de Sardegna! Santa Maria la Palma ‘le Bombarde’ Cannonau de Sardegna 2012 ($13).

Shayne Hebert, Central Florida wine supervisor. Follow me on Twitter @abcwineshayne.

Last night I kicked back, opened a bottle of L’Esprit de Chevalier 2010 and turned on Red Obsession. This is the documentary I first spoke about in my pop culture article in our July/August Wine Journal. I was so excited to see it streaming on Netflix--I couldn’t wait to watch.

When we first begin we get to see a small section of the 2010 En Primeur in Bordeaux where the 2010 is about to be graded as an almost perfect year, which in turn will account for the price jump. I was so enthralled I actually took notes on some of the history on the first growths. Come to find out, Bordeaux wine prices have risen over 1000% in the past 10 years and, for some, too valuable to drink. When the U.S. stock market took a turn in 2008, many investors turned to wine instead. 2008 was an interesting year, as I saw in this documentary, Lafite-Rothschild did something unique on their bottles, they placed the Chinese number 8 above the label. This almost seems like an opening up to an entire new market for the Bordeaux wines.

This branding of the wine with their fascination with numerology did something to that particular label, it became an obsession. In numerology the number 8 is connected with luck and prosperity so many looked at this label as a gift to their culture. Now, to own a bottle of Lafite-Rothschild is a status symbol in the Chinese community.

But now let’s take this one step further, according to the documentary, when the Chinese want something, they get it, so what we are seeing now is, not only are billionaires buying land in Bordeaux, but they are searching to find plots of land to grow their own wines in China. In a few years could we see wines of the Gobi desert? China is now planting 20,000 acres of new vineyards every year. In the next four decades they will be on their way to becoming the largest producer of wine in the world. I’ll be curious to see how this works, how about you? I highly recommend seeing this documentary if you have interest in wine. Sit back, open a good bottle, and see what you think.

Kathleen Anderson, Northwest Florida wine supervisor

Follow me on Twitter @abcwinekat

No, my spellcheck isn’t broken; Julius Caeser Newman spelled his name exactly how I have it written. Story goes that he was given the middle name when coming through Ellis Island. When he informed one of the intake clerks that he didn’t have a middle name, he was met with the response that a name like Julius deserved a good one. From that point on his middle name was Caeser. Unfortunately the clerk didn’t have spellcheck and he misspelled the name on his official document.

I am glad that the clerk decided to give him that middle name since J. C. Newman Cigar Company has such a catchy ring to it. For those not familiar, the J. C. Newman Cigar Company is one of the oldest cigar makers in the country and they operate the only surviving cigar factory in Ybor City (Tampa, Florida). Although J. C. started his business in Cleveland in 1895, he relocated to Cigar City in 1954. The company has survived the roaring twenties, the Great Depression, two world wars, and the Cuban Embargo that put every other cigar factory in Ybor City out of business. Recently this factory has come under fire of some proposed FDA regulation, which, if imposed, will literally take the cigar out of Cigar City.

In an attempt to regulate the growing E-Cigarette boom, The FDA would have certainly forced the closure of this historic landmark in Tampa. If you haven’t visited this beautifully bricked building that has been completely restored to its early 20^th century grandeur, then you are missing out on a wonderful piece of not only Florida, but American history.

Like their father and grandfather before them, Eric and Bobby Newman didn’t just stand by and hope for the best. They put up a big fight, calling on help from their friends in the industry. Their efforts were so far reaching that they were able to gain support from both sides of the political aisle. Yes, that’s right. In today’s rabid political environment they have been able to gain bi-partisan support and have won an early battle.

Although the war isn’t over, I think that a little celebration is in order and what better way to do that than with a Julius Caeser cigar. This cigar from their famed and exclusive Diamond Crown line is obviously named for the company founder. This 93 rated cigar was created in 2010 and remains a favorite of mine still to this day. It has a delicious Ecuadorian Habano wrapper, a Dominican binder, and some beautifully aged Central American filler. The filler blend may be a secret, but the fact that these tobaccos are aged for five years is not.

The cigar has some strength to it, just a notch or two below their Maximus line, but the complexity of flavors are not lost for sure. The flavor spectrum of this cigar is across the board with bold coffee and some nice spicy notes that linger on the sweeter side. There is a little black pepper, but it blends with some nutmeg and perhaps a bit of cinnamon. This cigar also boasts some nutty flavors, which I perceive as toasted almonds.

When you retrohale the cigar the spice notes are more pronounced, but the mild sweetness still lingers on the palate. This is what cigar complexity is all about. I have new cigar smokers ask me all the time about complexity. They say that they have a hard time discerning from the different flavors. This is a cigar that I would give someone seeking that experience. One doesn’t need an experienced palate to enjoy the greatness of this cigar.

It is an exclusive cigar and J. C. Newman is very particular about who they allow to sell this beauty. I am proud to say that they have entrusted us at ABC to provide this cigar to our guests, though we don’t sell it in all of our humidors. If you visit your local ABC and they don’t have it, just ask for them to transfer one in for you or point you in the right direction. It is an amazing smoke that I believe all lovers of the leaf should experience at least once, or twice, or three times.

Long Ashes,

Chris Gwaltney, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits North Florida regional manager, Certified Tobacconist and Cicerone Beer Server

Follow me on Twitter @abccigarchris.

Recently on my Twitter feed, a fellow tweeter wrote a review about an imperial stout and said it is “not your average chick beer.” A few female tweeters chimed in and asked what exactly is a “chick beer?” He replied that there was not really a chick beer per se but some women would not enjoy the taste of the particular one he was drinking for its higher alcohol content and complex body. Other men and women joined the thread and agreed that anybody can like any beer and there should not be any labels. Unfortunately, society has labeled the all-malt, imitation fruit beer, and any really fruity beer for that matter, as a “chick beer.” I hear all too often: “This is what my girlfriend drinks,” or “Girls only like the sweet stuff.”

Zima, the first “malternative” beverage was launched in 1994 at the height of the clear beverage craze. Coors produced the sweet, all-malt beer, which was actually marketed to men as a more “manly” alternative to then popular Boone’s Farm wines. One 1994 commercial depicted young coeds grilling fish and enjoying ice cold Zimas out of a cooler. It was “zomething different”. Zima turned out to be very successful its first year release selling an astonishing 1.3 million barrels. A year later sales started to fall and it gained its reputation as a very unmanly beverage. Late night talk show host David Letterman constantly used it as the punch line of his jokes. Desperate to keep the male audience, Coors pitched Zima commercials with football and a lighthearted dancing, they even released Zima Gold with a slightly higher alcohol percent and a bourbon and Coke flavor, but that died very quickly. All Zima production ended in 2008 to make way for the brief era of caffeinated malt beverages like Sparks and Four Loko.

Seeing a market for malternatives, and a way to get around television advertising laws against alcohol and wine, the Smirnoff Corporation and the United Distillers and Vintners released Smirnoff Ice in 1999. The first was Smirnoff Ice Original, again targeted to men with a commercial about two guys trying to coax a grizzly beer away from their cooler of Smirnoff Ice. One guy makes the “smooth move” of dousing his buddy in honey to distract the hungry beast while he sits back with a cold one. It turned into a massive success and to this day, it is the number one selling malternative with 22 flavors including a higher alcohol “black” version, classic mixed cocktails and frozen drink pouches.

The same year Smirnoff Ice came out, Mike’s Hard Lemonade debuted on April 1. It gave us the concept of not just creating an all-malt beverage, but simply taking a drink already considered refreshing, like lemonade and iced tea, and premixing it with alcohol for easy consumption. The idea was brilliant and the brand took off. Early commercials appealed to the male crowd with one showing two rugged woodsmen, one accidentally cutting his foot off. They make it all better by going out to enjoy a Mike’s. Bacardi joined the malternative bandwagon in 2002 with Bacardi Sliver, which showcased the popular cocktail of the time, the mojito.

All of these brands made the valiant effort to appeal to the working man and give them an alternative to the everyday beer, they were never intended to be “chick beers.” On the contrary, I frequently witness females scouring my beer section for good, full-flavored brews, opting for hoppy IPAs and robust stouts. On the other end of the spectrum, I see some guys grabbing lighter brews, like Shock Top, Blue Moon and even Mike’s Hard Lemonade, while their girlfriends get Sam Adams or Yuengling. But as the saying goes, “All beer is brewed equal.”

Adam Shugan, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits beer consultant - Gainesville

Follow me on Twitter @abcbeeradams

For lovers of South African wine, a category in which I am decidedly a member, the news is good!

The recent Nederburg Auction, now in its 40^th year, showed a marked demand for premium South African wines, with an increase in sales of 60% over last year, despite a significant drop in the amount of wine up for sale.

The Nederburg Auction is one of the leading wine auctions in the world, along with Burgundy’s Hospices de Beaune and the Napa Valley Wine Auction. All South African wines are eligible. The final choices are determined during blind tastings by a panel of local and international experts.

The success of this year’s auction affirms that South Africa is improving its international reputation as a producer of premium wine.

What does that mean for wine lovers in Florida? Well, while sales of South African wine in Florida, and throughout the US, are improving, it is still a small category. Much needs to be done to increase the awareness of the average wine buyer. Beyond that, wine lovers who are buyers and collectors of premium wines tend to focus on the well-known old faithful names from all of those tried and true wine regions, while neglecting those areas with less established fame. These buyers also need to be made aware of the quality of South African wine. And that is what the success of this year’s Nederburg Auction, hopefully, is doing.

For ordinary wine lovers who are just dipping their toe in the enjoyment of South African wine I am happy to offer a few suggestions. First of all, take a giant step past those cheap, generic wine brands whose labels scream a cartoonish view of Africa – giraffes, lions and all manner of wild animals. For a couple of dollars more you can have a truly interesting wine that satisfies.

Lovers of white wine should try South Africa’s most famous white varietal Chenin Blanc (which they call Steen, a term that seems to be used less and less as South Africa enters the international market). Chenin Blanc has yet to become a go-to wine as far as the American palate is concerned, but those in the know will appreciate its delicate floral, citrus and honey aromas – most South African Chenin Blanc is dry, for those accustomed to the California plonk. Another must-try is potentially South Africa’s greatest white wine – Sauvignon Blanc.

Amongst the reds you will find a lot of excellent Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon. Also of note and well worth trying are some of the ‘lesser’ grape varieties that originated in the south of France like Cinsaut and Mourvedre. On a recent visit I was also very impressed by much of their Merlot.

As for South Africa’s famous (some would say infamous) native red grape Pinotage, a strange cross between Pinot Noir and Cinsaut, I would say by all means try one. In fact try many, as just about every South African winemaker has a different take on what the wine is all about, and styles and quality vary across the spectrum. A good one, though, can be extremely satisfying.

Lastly, don’t forget to try some of South Africa’s delicious sparkling wine, which can show quality and drinkability pretty much across the board.

At this point it would appear that South Africa’s wine industry can proudly say it has it all – an up-and-coming new generation of committed and enthusiastic winemakers, a growing sense of terroir and regional identity, any number of interesting grape varieties to work with, and some truly delicious wine.

All that’s needed now is greater international awareness. And that, in some small way, is what this piece is all about. Talk to your local ABC wine consultant, try the wines and help spread the good news about South African wine!

Bill Stobbs, ABC Wine Supervisor

Follow me on Twitter @abcwinebills

ABC Wine Consultant Christine Byler at Northstar Winery

The memories of my experience at Northstar began even before I set foot in the vineyard. Driving through a scenic tour of Walla-Walla Valley, which is a sub AVA of Columbia Valley, I was greeted with breathtaking views of Washington’s famous wine country.

The winery is tucked away inside of their own vineyard. As I sat on their patio enjoying lunch with their Merlot, all I could think of was to look out to the future harvest; maybe those little beauties will be in my glass the next time I am here!

Northstar Winery

Walking into the winery, which had a comforting, almost cozy décor, we were escorted out to the south-facing 14 acre vineyard. Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Syrah and Petit Verdot all growing here, with the first vines planted in 2002. At an approximately 14,000 case production per year, David “Merf” Merfeld, head winemaker since 2005, certainly has let his passion shine. As he aims for a “perfect balance of varietal purity, fruit intensity and ripe, harmonious tannins.”

In addition to their estate, fruit is selected from the state’s top 2% of vineyard blocks, Merf and his team guide it through a gentle sorting and whole-berry fermentation. State-of-the-art winery equipment, cutting edge tannin research, and old-fashioned instinct all aid Merf in creating the final blends of Northstar’s highly acclaimed Merlots from both the Walla Walla Valley and Columbia Valley designations.

Sorting grapes

Northstar is a holding of Ste. Michelle Wine Estates, the largest and oldest wine producer in Washington state. The mission of Northstar has always been to create world class Merlot that holds true to the unique expression of Washington state fruits. Being at the same latitude as the Bordeaux region of France, Northstar actually has a longer growing season, warm days and cool nights which bring a wonderfully full body to these delicately balanced Merlots.

With only 6-8 inches of rainfall per year, these vines work tirelessly through the whole 190-220 day growing season, resulting in a mouthwateringly soft texture, and with up to 18 months aging, beautifully integrated tannins.

Ready for harvesting!

The winery’s website goes into depth with each wine and discusses the goals of blending. Cabernet Sauvignon is added to ‘soften Washington Merlot with bright cherry and raspberry fruit flavors;’ Petit Verdot ‘adds color and structure;’ Cabernet Franc ‘brings softness and an olive herbal tone.’

Next we found ourselves in the tank room. The mammoth stainless steel tanks that line the wall, and excessively loud rock 'n' roll music that was blaring through the room, gave a sense of intimidation.

Wine production

Walking on through to the barrel room, the scale of production was brought into focus. Barrel upon barrel of patiently aging wine in 55-60% new French oak and the smell of the barrel room inspired such an aroma I distinctly remember my mouth watering instantaneously. What a wonderful scent, red wine maturing, it’s like that moment the smell of the brownies in the oven becomes irresistible.

Blending wine at Northstar

Our tour of Northstar was still far from over. After making our way through the vineyards and winery we moved on to the unique and exciting Northstar Blending Experience. Starting with a brief presentation, our tour guide Jan, guided us through a tasting of four distinct Merlots from four different regions of Washington, along with a Cabernet Sauvignon and a Petit Verdot, all straight from the barrel.

This was one of the most memorable parts of my trip to the Pacific Northwest. To simply follow my own instincts using beakers, graduated cylinders and other winemaking equipment, I masterfully created my own Washington State award-winning wine. Ok, so no real awards, but my one-of-a kind bottle of Northstar wine will always be one of my favorites!

Christine Byler, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits wine consultant - Altamonte Springs

You can shop for Northstar wine at abcfws.com!

No, I haven’t hit my head…well, not lately anyways. Chardonnay in Bordeaux, YES!! Anytime you think you have a wine region figured out, Bacchus throws you a curve ball, and that is exactly what happened to me this week. I was doing a little research on a completely different subject and came across a story on Clos Dubreuil of St. Emilion and found that indeed, Chardonnay was being produced in Bordeaux. All these years of trying to explain to people that only specific grapes (wines) can be made in certain areas in Europe and why that is and yada, yada, yada as their eyes begin to glaze over, then something like this comes around and we're back to square one. So this is what I found out about Bordelaise Chardonnay:

Benoit Trocard is the managing director of Clos Dubreuil--his family has many holdings throughout the Right Bank, including wines from Pomerol, Bordeaux Superieur and now in Lussac, where the Chardonnay is planted. Trocard has politicked for some time to grow this white grape that was not permitted by the AOC, France's governing body for wine. The allowable grapes up to now in Bordeaux are Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Sauvignon Gris, Muscadelle and some very small plantings of varieties like Ugni Blanc, Folle Blanche and Columbard. Dubreuil Chardonnay, as it is labeled, is for now a small 100 cases of production from less than a hectare of vineyards, but is planned to go to over 300 cases in the future. Lussac, which is just north of St. Emilion, has soils comprised mainly of limestone and clay. The Dubreuil Chardonnay sees about 10 months of aging in 50 percent new French oak barrels and sells for around $60 a bottle. An early review of the wines goes like this…"2013 Dubreuil Chardonnay, Debut vintage of this 100% Chardonnay. From the team at Clos Dubreuil, the wine pops with lemon, orange and grapefruit aromas. Zippy, but a bit short in the citrus finish.”

And though this is mostly an experiment for now, Benoit Trocard feels that if this area is capable of producing quality Chardonnay, then he sees no reason why it shouldn’t be allowed. French wines with screw tops, bottles carrying the varietal name on the label--it’s as if French wines are entering the modern world. Who knows what's next, Ch. Lafite in a box?? There I go, hitting my head again!

Ken Amendola, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits wine supervisor

Follow me on Twitter @abcwinekena

Last April I had the opportunity to visit one of Italy's most dramatic wine regions, Valtellina. Upon my return I felt so inspired by the landscape and the wines I wrote an article for our Wine Journal. As a rule I try not to write about wines that have not yet arrived in our stores, but I was sure they would arrive soon.

After months of waiting I'm thrilled to report the wines are finally on our store shelves. I'm sure for most of you this is long forgotten information, so I'll give you a quick refresher course into these unique wines.

Valtellina is an alpine valley in the far north of Lombardy on the Swiss border. Wine has been produced here for over 2000 years. Today the wines are produced from the Nebbiolo grape variety known here as Chiavennasca. If you have ever had a Barolo or Barbaresco from the neighboring Piedmont region then you are familiar with Nebbiolo. The wines of Valtellina have a similar flavor profile with an aromatic bouquet of dried cherry, tar and rose petals, but because of the high altitude the body is somewhat lighter.

The best wines of Valtellina come from the following sub-zones: Maroggia, Sassella, Grumello, Inferno and Valgella. Aldo Rainoldi is one of the top producers in the region and all his vineyards are in Sassella, Grumello and Inferno. Wine critic Antonio Galloni said,"This producer based in Lombardy's Valtellina makes a number of delicious, value priced reds."

ABC Fine Wine & Spirits now proudly offers three wines from Aldo Rainoldi:

Prugnolo, a blend of Nebbiolo grapes from the three sub-zones. The most approachable of the wines.

Inferno: This sub-zone has some of the hottest and steepest vineyards in Valtellina. Appropriately named, Inferno means "hell" in Italian.

Sassella. Wines from this sub-zone are named after sasso, the Italian word for stone because of its stony iron and mineral rich soil.

Wedged between and protected by the Alps to the north and south, Valtellina has been producing outstanding wines for centuries. It's now time to discovery these unique wines for yourself.

Paul Quaglini, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits wine supervisor

Follow me on Twitter @abcwinepaulq

It’s been a few weeks since I reviewed a cigar so I thought today would be a great time to debut something new we picked up at IPCPR 2014. The Nub Café Espresso isn’t just new to us at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits, but it is also new to the cigar world. If the past successes of Oliva Cigar Company’s new releases are any indication, this new cigar will be a major hit. It is their first step into the waters of infused cigars, and let me say their rookie status is not noticeable on the palate.

As most of you who have followed me for any period of time know that infused cigars, or those with extra “non-tobacco flavors” embedded in the stick, aren’t usually ones that I ordinarily smoke. I enjoy them as a change of pace and I always keep a few in my humidor for others, but they just aren’t "go to" sticks for me. I learned a long time ago that if I only stock cigars I enjoy smoking then I will most often be smoking alone.

I gave one a few puffs in Vegas but the show is no intense, with so many cigars, it is hard to really appreciate them. It is when I get home and go through all the samples and new releases that I am able to form a better opinion. Let me begin by saying that this cigar is very enjoyable.

As I puff on this dark leaf beauty, the sun is rising behind me ushering another hot and humid Florida August day. I usually have just a few hours of early morning coolness before it becomes too unbearable to enjoy coffee and cigars on my back patio. My coffee of choice is a Dominican espresso and let me say that the two work quite nicely together. The wrapper leaf is Sumatran, while the other components are not listed.

The cigar is full of rich cacao flavors right from the start. Although the chocolate notes are deep and rich, there is a lovely sweetness (caramel flavor) that lingers on the lips and palate after every puff. Of course there is the coffee flavor, but here it is the dark chocolate that shines through. I venture to say that if I were smoking a larger ring gauge the sweetness would probably be a little more muted.

I “occasionally” will enjoy a caramel-mocha frappuccino from Starbucks. For those not familiar, order it next time and make sure they drizzle it with both chocolate and caramel. It’s about 97,000 calories, but so worth it. That is what the finish on this cigar reminds me of, a tobacco version of that coffee drink. It’s a perfect blend of the chocolate, caramel and coffee flavors, with, of course, sweetness lingering on the palate after every sip.

I highly recommend this cigar for everyone as it was a very enjoyable breakfast smoke for me today. As far as strength goes, this is a medium to full bodied experience but don’t let that scare you away if you prefer milder smokes. It is masked very well and the jolt will get you moving early in the morning. I predict that Oliva will sell many of these cigars and you can look for them in the near future at an ABC store near you.

Long Ashes,

Chris Gwaltney, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits North Florida regional manager, Certified Tobacconist and Cicerone Beer Server

Follow me on Twitter @abccigarchris.

Picture this: A sunny summer Sunday morning on an outdoor patio, a slight breeze created by the large ceiling fans from the lanai, ready to enjoy your eggs benedict and home fries. Do you pop open your favorite Cabernet Sauvignon? I think not. The other side of this pastoral picture is the muggy sweatiness of a Florida summer, and a heavy red just makes you sweat all the more. Plus it’s early in the day. To better be productive, it’s nice to tone down the alcohol (as well as the tannin). So when I’m asked, “What’s your favorite brunch wine?” I usually shock the questioner with “Moscato d’Asti!”

Do I drink Moscato every day? No. I am not part of that current demographic wave, but I’m a wine lover, and I understand that context is also important. Though I love a deep, dark, brooding red, I also like to feel comfortable. No matter how much seersucker you wear at a charming midday repast, you will feel the heat! And don’t we want to be productive? That’s where the lower alcohol of Moscato d’Asti comes in, usually between 5% and 7%. Moscato d’Astis also have that charming fizz, called frizzante. Not the full jacuzzi bubbles of spumante, frizzante is a delicate bubbling, like the few bubbles that struggle through the fresh-squeezed orange juice in your mimosa.

Perhaps this is also the source of my love for Moscato d’Asti at brunch: It’s almost a pre-mixed mimosa or Bellini. Most Moscatos have a fragrance that jumps out of your glass with pear and peach blossom, bordering on honeysuckle, backed up by sweetly ripe fruit on the palate. That hint of bubble, and the Italian tendency to allow just a hint of acidity to their Moscatos, stops the experience from being cloyingly sweet, keeping it cool and refreshing.

For years my “go to” brunch wine was a winey concoction or “mimosa bar,” with one bubbly, most often a prosecco, and an array of fruit juices including the “big three” that make up mimosas, Bellinis and poinsettias. I would then add passion fruit or guava or pomegranate juices. Having more than a few choices means you open up the potential for interesting recombinations. I still do this occasionally, but it requires a little more preparation than just opening up one bottle of Moscato d’Asti. Now I’ve found the perfect amalgamation, which is my current top choice for brunch wine: Froot.

Yes, I’m spelling it correctly, “Froot.” This wine is aptly named as both versions provide a fresh fruit quality to their frizzy Moscato base. Froot Peach is like biting into a fresh Georgia peach! The Froot Strawberry smells like a basket of Farmers’ Market strawberries, but has a background of the honeysuckle and citrus blossom we associate with Moscato d’Asti. It’s like a garden party erupting out of your flute, though I often serve them in bigger glasses to better enjoy the aromas. What’s even better about these two Italian Froot wines is their cost at $8 per bottle. Very affordable and with great fruit flavors, so how can you miss? For your next Sunday brunch on the patio, open up some well-chilled refreshment and hearken back to the garden parties of yesteryear where no one seemed to sweat underneath their parasols. A little coolness this time of year is a weekly Sunday miracle!

Daniel Eddy

Gainesville wine consultant for ABC Fine Wines & Spirits. Follow me on Twitter @abcwinedane.

Wine Pairing Examiner for Examiner.com

Over the past several years Moscato sales have sky rocketed. I'll admit though, Moscato seems to have garnished a bad rap among us is the wine biz because of its sweetness and bottom shelf, mass produced status. But let me tell you, there are impressive, high quality Moscatos out there. I was recently fortunate enough to travel to the Piedmont region of Italy and visit one of those outstanding Moscato producers, Ca' d'Gal. Ca' d'Gal, meaning house of the rooster, is owned by Alessandro Boido, a man who is as sweet as the wines he produces. The winery is known for its Moscato d'Asti and Asti Spumante, with the Asti Spumante having more bubbles and less sweetness than the Moscato d 'Asti.

During a dinner event at the winery, I tried Moscato in a whole new way—in a cocktail called a Mosquito! It was much tastier than it sounds and was fun to say, ”Yes, I'll have the Mosquito.” It is comprised of Moscato d' Asti, light rum, fresh berries or peaches, mint and simple syrup. Refreshing and fruity, but not too sweet. Another innovative cocktail includes Asti Spumante with a dash of fresh berries and currants. It was almost too pretty to drink. The berries really helped to accentuate the sweet fruit notes of the Asti. The following day entailed a vertical tasting of 10 Moscato d' Asti Vigna Vecchia (meaning “old vine” in Italian) by Ca' d'Gal. It was astounding to taste how the young Moscatos bright, juicy apple, peach and pear notes evolve into fuller bodied wines with honey,caramel, and brown sugar flavors as they age.

The 1999 and 2000 vintages had distinct qualities reminiscent of elegant French Sauternes. Complex and sweet with a hint of acidity followed by a long, lingering finish. Delicious! There is a phrase in Italian—"Il buon vino non vole frasca," translating to,"good wine needs no branch." Essentially, what it means is that when you have good wine you don'tneed any gimmicks—that quality speaks for itself—and at Ca' d'Gal it definitely does.

Rachel Moore, wine consultant at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Tampa

There isn’t a more exciting time of year than late August. Fall weather is just around the corner and the sound of football pads popping fills the air. It would be an understatement to say that I am a football fan. I spent last Saturday evening watching my Florida State Seminoles get off to a sluggish start to the 2014 season. This weekend we welcome the National Football League to the party. As a season ticket holder to the Jacksonville Jaguars, I anxiously await our first tailgate of the season. Sadly, I will have to wait another two weeks for our first home game against the Indianapolis Colts.

Food and beer are the two obvious centerpieces of any tailgate experience, but let me remind you to not forget the cigars. You can bet that I will never partake in any pregame activities that don’t include a cigar or two. So let me take this opportunity to provide you with a few tailgating tips.

For those who have read my previous blog about cigars on the golf course, many of the same principles apply to the tailgate experience. Bring enough to share, a variety of sizes, strengths, and flavors, and don’t forget all the tools of the trade.

It is very important to bring enough to share. It is quite possible that not everyone who enjoys smoking cigars remembered to bring one, so this gives you the chance to be the hero. I have given many sticks to cigar lovers who didn’t think to bring one because they didn’t think anyone else would be partaking. I also make it a point to bring a wide range of strengths and flavors. I don’t normally smoke infused cigars, but that doesn’t mean that I won’t encounter someone who does. If you tailgate in my parking lot and you want to smoke a cigar, I have you covered.

The great thing about sharing cigars with folks is that they will remember next time to bring their own and NFL Sundays often become not only a tailgate party—but also a time for cigar swap.

As far as tools go, it is quite simple. You will need a cutter, a few lighters, and something to store your cigars in. A large cigar ashtray is also a cool thing because it gives everyone a place to rest their cigars while they grab another beverage or toss around the pigskin for a few minutes.

As far as what specific cigars make for good tailgating sticks, well that just depends on your tastes really. I would consider the time of day and weather conditions. Since most of our games are 1 p.m. kickoffs, I usually start with a milder cigar to start with. A Connecticut Shade or Ecuadorian Connecticut often make for a nice pre-meal smoke. After consuming some food and an adult beverage or two, I transition into an after dinner cigar. There is nothing more relaxing than smoking a full-bodied cigar after you have devoured a huge chunk of red meat.

I have chosen my home opener tailgate stick already. Thanks to Atlanta Falcons defensive line coach Bryan Cox, I will kick things off with an Asylum Ogre. If you didn’t catch HBO’s Hard Knocks series this year, let me just say that Mr. Cox’s cigar smoking was featured almost as much as the team itself. It was refreshing to see such a popular show not afraid to show coaches enjoying premium cigars. Coach Cox was first shown smoking an Asylum Ogre, a monstrous 80 ring gauge stick with a double wrapper which includes a bright green candela leaf. I am hoping that this massive cigar will help usher in what I am hoping will be a largely successful season.

That's an 80 ring gauge on the right!

So whether you go big or small, serve burgers or brats, don’t forget the cigars. They will definitely enhance your tailgate. Oh, and if you team loses will make the walk back to your car a little less painful.

Long Ashes,

Chris Gwaltney, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits North Florida regional manager, Certified Tobacconist and Cicerone Beer Server

Follow me on Twitter @abccigarchris.

I was very lucky to attend a special event at the brand new First Magnitude Brewing Company in Gainesville. It is named for the powerful first magnitude springs of north central Florida churning out fresh water at 100 cubic feet per second! In addition, there are the brightest, first magnitude stars that illuminate the night sky. This is what inspired the attractive logo depicting a mermaid with her telescope gazing up at the stars.

I drove up to the outskirts of downtown Gainesville and found the brewery tucked away behind some construction. I navigated through a labyrinth of parked cars and found a spot in the gravel lot. Inside I was greeted by a friendly crewmember who gave me a mini tasting glass, card for a flight and a raffle ticket to hopefully win a t-shirt. The crowd was light compared to the grand opening that occurred the week before drawing over 1,500 people! I admired the large tasting room with exposed wood beams and a really cool bar top made from iron paint sprayed with an oxidizing agent that was then sealed to stop the oxidation, leaving beautiful browns, turquoises and oranges. I walked to the bar and greeted the young, gnome bearded bartender and requested the one beer everyone told me to try first: the 72 Pale Ale named for the constant, year-round 72-degree temperature of the Florida springs. I was not disappointed. This pale was full-flavored with bright citrusy hops and a firm malt backbone.

I was delighted to see that the event was catered by the local Piesano’s Italian restaurant and grubbed on some delicious slices of different calzones and fried ravioli. With a full belly I talked with the distributers for the brewery who were sponsoring the event before going for my second beer, the Siren Blond Ale, named for the beautiful sea nymphs of Greek mythology who lured sailors to certain death with their bewitching songs. This was a nice blond, light-bodied and refreshing. I then met co-owner and head brewer John Denny and his wife Christine. He was a very nice gentleman with a love for his craft and a big beer geek like me. I inquired about plans for barrel aging and a chance for sours. He replied that they were going to take it slow but definitely were interested in these things in the near future. We chatted some more and he thanked me for attending and invited me to eat and drink as much as I wanted. I decided to get my third beer, the Drift English Mild Ale, which had a nice charcoal hue and roasty flavor.

There was a thank you speech from the craft manager of the distributor and also from John himself. He talked about their journey to opening the brewery and its huge success only a week behind schedule. I went for my fourth beer, Time Out Irish Dry Stout, a hearty stout with good toasty mocha flavors. The 72, Siren and Drift are their core year-round beers with Time Out and the last beer I tried, Night Fall Porter, being rotating seasonals. I was sad to find out I missed some delicious specialty brews including Devil’s Eye Double IPA, named for a popular cave diving spot near High Springs, Florida, as well as Skinny Dip Amber Ale, Karst Belgian Pale Ale and River Rise Belgian Strong Dark Ale. These brews were sucked dry by the masses during the grand opening.

I had a chance to talk with brewer Eric about his techniques and plans for the future before a tour of the facility was announced. I followed a small group gathered at the back of the warehouse to see where the magic happened. John gave an in-depth discussion on the brewing process and explained the different tanks, heat exchanger, centrifuge and piping. It seemed like a very efficient 30 barrel system.

For now, they distribute in extremely limited batches and will stay solely in Gainesville. If everything works out, they will start bottling and/or canning in about a year. As soon as I can get some kegs, I will put them on tap at my growler station, so you will have to come visit sometime.

Adam Shugan, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits beer consultant - Gainesville

Follow me on Twitter @abcbeeradams

Outdoor lunch in Cape Town, South Africa

We’re just inches past Labor Day and some folks are already thinking autumn. But I say, “Don’t put that grill away yet!” There’s still a lot of warm weather to enjoy, especially here in Florida, and even as temps start to cool there is still enjoyment to be had, courtesy of your outdoor grill!

We Americans, of course, love our grills and barbecues. And these days it goes way beyond the hot dog and hamburger fare of yore. We all have our closely guarded secrets and recipes, our own arcane rituals that all go together to produce the perfect grilling experience.

But the big news is–we’re not alone! Among other countries, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa also have their own distinct cultural traditions of outdoor cooking. And they also have a wide variety of wines that make outdoor dining complete.

Australians, for example, spend as much time grilling and barbecuing as anyone, and these days it is so much more than “shrimp on the barbie.” Modern Australian cuisine has moved away from its British roots (though meat pie with sauce, and fish & chips are still popular) and has now become a fusion of many cultural styles. As a country/continent surrounded by water you can bet there’s an ocean or two of delicious seafood available to grill. Asian and many other cultural recipes have also been adapted to their needs, and there are many indigenous delicacies to sample as well–kangaroo burgers and smoked wallaroo anyone?

Preparing the Barbie in Clare Valley, Australia

I hardly need add that although Australians love to sink a few tinnies (cans of beer) during the course of their barbie, there are also many great Australian wines to enjoy as well. The secret of enjoying Australian wine is to spend just a few dollars more and bypass that glut of entry level “critter wine” that’s floating around out there. Your local ABC wine consultant can help you choose.

Just as the word “barbecue” (derived from the word “barabicu” found in the languages of the Taino of the Caribbean and the Timucua of Florida) translates as “sacred fire pit”–so that principle method of cooking among Maori of New Zealand, the hangi, means “earth oven.” Before the arrival of the Pakeha (fair-skinned people) Maori had no metal or earthenware containers, so they could only prepare their food by roasting, baking or grilling using wet steam or smoke. The preferred method for large gatherings was the hangi in which a pit was dug and filled with stones which were heated by a large fire. The food was wrapped in leaves or sacking and then covered over with earth for several hours to cook. (It’s an involved process but if you are ever tempted to lay your own hangi you will find detailed instructions at www.maorifood.com.)

Outdoor lunch at Cloudy Bay, New Zealand

Traditionally Maori made no wine or spirits, due largely to the fact that they had few containers to keep it in, and gourds gave distilled or fermented liquids an unappealing odor. But now there are an amazing amount of first-class wines from New Zealand that are particularly adapted to outdoor sipping. How about a delicious New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Pinot Noir?

In South Africa the name is braai, which is the Afrikaans word for barbecue or grill. Traditionally, they grilled using wood, and although (like everywhere else) charcoal and briquettes are now often used, there is a strong back to wood movement. I should add that gas grilling is frowned upon in general. As in many other countries, the braai is usually the preserve of the male, especially during social gatherings. The men stand around the braai and talk and drink while the person in charge grills boerwors (sausage), sosaties (marinated chunks of meat on a skewer), kebabs, marinated chicken, pork, lamb chops or steaks. Fish and crayfish are also popular.

Whether you call it a braai or a barbecue, the wines of South Africa are also outdoor delights. Once again, check with your nearest ABC wine consultant for suggestions. And here’s hoping you will continue enjoying your outdoor grill for weeks and months to come–along with a bottle or two of fine wine, of course!

Bill Stobbs, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits wine supervisor

Follow me on Twitter @abcwinebills

Not a barrel of fun in a Napa winery.

Napa Valley--or all of California for that matter--is one of the most beautiful wine growing regions in the world. Which is why it also attracts more visitors than most any major wine producing area on Earth. On most any day of the year and especially in the late summer and early fall, thousands of wine loving tourists, wine professionals or those that are just curious flock to Northern California to admire and sample some the very best wines in the world. This is pretty much how the day went last Saturday, August 23. The kind of day you would come to expect in Napa Valley, bright sunshine, gentle breeze, all the tasting rooms were bustling with wine geeks, all was good. But as the saying goes, all good things come to and end. And it did, because at approximately 2:00 on Sunday morning a magnitude 6 earthquake rocked the wine country of Northern California. The quake caused over $1,000,000,000 worth of damage and injured more than 100 people, but thankfully no deaths were directly attributed to the quake. This was the largest quake to hit the Bay area since 1989. Those of you that are baseball fans are sure to remember the World Series game between the Oakland A’s and San Francisco Giants that was postponed 10 days due to that crippling earthquake.

Some of the lost wine bottles in Napa Valley's iconic Silver Oak Winery.

The quake last week didn’t affect any baseball games, but it did do some major league damage to the city of Napa. Dozens of buildings were extensively damaged and a number of fires were ignited, but again, no deaths. Many retail stores did lose significant amounts of inventory, most significantly the thousands of broken bottles in wine shops. It will take more time to evaluate all the cracked and crumbled buildings, but it could have been much worse, especially in the vineyards. Many of Napa Valley’s wineries did sustain some bumps and bruises, mostly ruptured tanks and barrels (thankfully mostly empty) rolling free, wineries whose bottles in their library of older vintages were sadly lost. Ultimately the earthquake caused a lot of mess and disruption and it was a terrible thing, but had the earthquake occurred at the end of October or November instead of August, the loss of wine would have been catastrophic. At the end of October most of the vineyards would have been picked, all the tanks would have been filled and many with Napa Valley’s lifeblood, Cabernet Sauvignon. As it was the red wine barrels were mostly empty, still a lot of money in expensive oak barrels, but an empty busted barrel is always better than a full barrel!

One of the many sad-looking retail wine employees assessing the damage the morning after the earthquake.

So will the Earth shaking that happened last Sunday morning show any effect on your retail wine shelves, hard to say, but in a business that shows profit in single digit percentages ?? Who knows…

Ken Amendola, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits wine supervisor

Follow me on Twitter @abcwinekena

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