One of the world’s most widely planted varieties, Grenache has a story to tell, a story embedded in some of the best known wine regions in Europe. Believed to originate in the region of Aragon in northern Spain Grenache spread throughout Europe under the Crown of Aragon, first to Catalonia and Navarra (Rioja came much later, and for different reasons) then on to the Roussillon in S. France and to Italy, most notable the island of Sardinia. With well over fifty different synonyms, the Grenache is anything but fickle. It is a late-ripening varietal, so it favors hot climates. It finds this favorable climate in Spain and Southern France, as well as in California and Australia.

One of Grenache’s assets is its ability to produce an abundant crop in these hot surroundings, where many Vitis Vinifera would not survive. The downside to this is that Grenache tends to offer low acidity, low tannins, questionable color and the undesirable ability to oxidize prematurely. To off-set this, blending in many of the regions where Grenache reigns is a must. Grenache also matures with relatively high sugars, so higher levels of alcohol can be expected. This is a benefit in the production of high octane, sweet dessert style wines, which would explain why it is the grape of choice for some of the Vin Doux Naturels in France (Banyuls, most importantly) and historically was the grape of choice in Australia for their Port inspired wines.

In Spain, Grenache began in Aragon and found its way throughout the northwest before passing over the Pyrenees into the French Roussillon region. Only since the early nineteenth century, after phyloxera had devastated much of European vineyards and extensive replanting began did Grenache (and its ability to work well in a blend) become a player in Rioja. But in southern Aragonia, in wine regions like Campo de Borja and Calatayud, Grenache (Garnacha in Spain) is top dog, and often unblended. It is in wines such as these that Spain holds firmly to the title of Greatest Wine Values of the World. An excellent example of the Spanish take on Grenache is Cistum 2009 ($17) (Robert Parker 92 points) from Navarra--115 year old vines! Intense and concentrated red berry and spice fruit.

In Australia, Grenache was one of the first Vinifera to arrive, and quickly became the backbone to the fledgling Aussie wine industry. At this point, the industry certainly was not quality oriented, but quantity...and Grenache was the man for the job. Today, however, Grenache does quite well, especially in areas like Mclaren Vale, either unblended or mixed with Shiraz and sometimes Mourvedre (GSM).

French Grenache often comes to you disguised and many things, few called Grenache. Since Grenache was introduced into the Roussillon, it is easy to see how it also became dominate in the Languedoc, then the Southern Rhone Valley, then (fortunately for rose lovers like me) on to Provence. Beginning near the border with Spain, Grenache is responsible for the wines of Banyuls (sweet) Collioure (dry) and blended in many of the A.O.P. wines of the Languedoc-Roussillon (Coteaux du Languedoc, Corbières AOC, Faugères, Minervois AOC, Fitou and Saint-Chinian). Then you come to the Rhone. Grenache is widely planted and accounts for a large proportion of nearly every wine, from the regional Cotes-du-Rhone, including the Cotes-du-Rhone Villages wines and the venerable Chateauneuf-du-Pape (where Grenache, one of 14 permitted varietals, can be as high as 80-100% of the blend). This explains why Chateauneuf-du-Pape has the highest minimum alcohol requirements of any wine in France, and it is here you will also find many, many 100+ year old Grenache vines. Try Le Grenache de Magellan 2011 ($14) with focused raspberry and pepper notes, good spice and a touch of leathery earth.

Once the grape has conquered the Pyrenees and spread across S. France, it was only a matter of time before Grenache reached Italy. A country with more indigenous varietals than formaggi (just kidding, I never counted), the last thing Italy needed was another red grape. Not so on the island of Sardinia. Locally known as Cannonau, the wine as Cannonau di Sardegna, this particular incarnation of Grenache gained worldwide acclaim a few decades back, when their wine, along with Madiran (red wine from the village of Madiran in SW France, made from the Tannat variety) was found to contain much higher levels of resveratrol and the polyphenol procyanidin. Wine for health, none better than the Cannonau de Sardegna! Santa Maria la Palma ‘le Bombarde’ Cannonau de Sardegna 2012 ($13).

Shayne Hebert, Central Florida wine supervisor. Follow me on Twitter @abcwineshayne.