Most Champagne-enthusiasts are aware of the three main grapes of Champagne:  Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Chardonnay. A lesser known fact is that there are seven authorized grapes in the region of Champagne which include all colors of the Pinot grape (noir, meunier, gris and blanc), Chardonnay, Petit Meslier and Arbane. 

Francois and Agnes Moutard with Brad Lewis.

François Moutard (Champagne Moutard) made headlines in Paris a few years back when he first introduced his Cuvée des 6 Cépages; Francois added to the traditional Champagne blend the two almost extinct grapes of Petit Meslier and Arbane.

Ever since, several other producers have created their own cuvées of six and seven cépages, but almost all of them buy the Arbane from François who controls 90% of all the plantings of Arbane in Champagne region. The vineyards are located in the communes of Buxeuil and Polisy in the southern-most appellation in Champagne called Côte-des-Bar. The particularity here is that the soil type is very similar to that of Chablis (Kimmeridgian soil), a type of limestone composed of tiny ancient oyster shells.

Francois Moutard at the top of the Arbane vineyard.

On the southern-facing slopes of the Côte-des-Bar is where the finicky Arbane thrives the best. Arbane and Petit-Meslier were abandoned by Champagne growers in the first place because they are hard to ripen in the cool Champagne climate. Arbane and Petit Meslier bring new levels of fruit and complexity to the Champagne blend.

François Moutard also makes a very delicate and complex 100% Arbane Champagne available at ABC Fine Wine and Spirits for $99.99. The Cuvée des 6 Cépages is priced at $56.99.

Atanas Nechkov, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits wine supervisor

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