Andalucía.  Anytime someone mentions the name, a big, impish grin comes to my lips. Why? Why indeed.  There are many aspects of my job that I truly love (and like everyone, there are some I do not).  But all things being equal, I consider myself to be very fortunate.  My profession affords me the opportunity to travel in wine country, and often to magical places.  Andalucía, the land of Sherry, Tapas, and Flamenco is undoubtedly one of them.   Add one more delightful facet to this list: Malaga.  

 

One of the oldest in the world, Malaga is a city along the sunny Spanish Costa del Sol.  But it is also an official wine denominacion, named after the sweet dessert wine bearing the same name.  I had a chance to experience both last July with a visit to the Jorge Ordonez & Co winery.  Jorge Ordonez, a Malaga native, is most noted here in the US as an importer of quality Spanish wines.  However, since 2004 he and his sister Victoria also run a family winery in Axarquia, located on the steep slopes above the city.  The winery was started as a joint venture with the late Austrian winemaker Alois Kracher and his family.  Today the wines are made by Alois’ son, Gerhard. 

The significance of Jorge Ordonez & Co in the area cannot be understated.  Prior to its founding, Malaga wine had almost disappeared – a victim of the phylloxera epidemic at the end of the 19^th century.  Until recently, its Moscatel grapes (a.k.a. Muscat of Alexandria) were primarily used to make raisins, not wine.  The little wine that was still made at the time was often of marginal quality.  Jorge, Victoria and Alois managed to change the minds of the local raisin growers into selling their grapes to the winery for the purpose of once again making quality Malaga.  Currently, there is a quality wine production revival in the area. 

 

Gerhard makes just five wines, all from 40 to 100 year old Moscatel vines.  The portfolio includes the 2010 Botani, a dry Sierras de Malaga white and four dessert-style Malagas.  Tasting all of them with Victoria Ordonez revealed wines with amazing purity, richness and depth.  The Botani was crisp, fragrant, refreshing and delicious – the perfect match with the fresh local seafood we had at a cozy beach-side restaurant.  Each of the dessert Malagas was a procession in intensity and opulence.  Here are my tasting notes from the afternoon:

Seleccion Especial 2008: Gold rim, with exotic pineapple & grape nose.  Rich apricot, golden currant, mineral and Valencia Orange on the palate. Nice acidity. Superb.

Victoria 2008: Made with partially air-dried grapes.  Gold rim with green glints, deeply rich nectar with mango, apricot, tangerine, acacia blossom and minerals.  Long finish.

Old Vines 2008: Deep golden hue with slight burnish rim.  Flavors and aromas of golden raisin, apricot, sweet spice with good acidity. Thick texture but not cloying.  Big finish.  Awesome wine.  Made from 80 to 100 year old vines.

Esencia 2006: Air-dried grapes barrel fermented in French Oak.  Deep gold rim, with heady floral and exotic tropical fruits on the nose. Palate is dense with orange marmalade on brioche, saffron, all-spice, crème brûlée, caramel, white chocolate, and apricot. Extremely thick but with lovely acidity. Exceptionally long finish.

Jim Greeley, Wine Supervisor, SW Florida

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