Dinner tonight: Coq au vin

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Coq au vin is one of the most popular of classic French recipes, and for that reason I’m surprised no one has yet presented their take on it on this website – an omission I will happily rectify now.


            Legend traces the recipe back to ancient Gaul at the time of Julius Caesar, but it was never actually documented until the early 20th century.


            The name coq au vin translates literally as ‘rooster in wine’. The rooster, or cockerel, is a tough old bird, which is why marinating is utilized to make the meat easier to eat and enjoy. Nowadays it is generally accepted that capon (which is a castrated cockerel) or just plain chicken is used. For the finest results you might try Bresse chickens. These are an AOC status chicken from the area of Bresse, in the Rhone-Alpes region of France. They are famed for their deep, gamey flavor, their tender flesh, and their delicious fat. Unfortunately, Bresse chickens are very pricey, and such is the demand for them in France that few are exported abroad. An (also pricey) alternative would be a Canadian Blue Foot chicken, which is raised in a similar way.


            Now for the wine part of the equation: Traditionally a half bottle of Burgundy is used in the recipe (don’t forget to sip on the rest while cooking!), though there are a number of variants – coq au vin jaune from Jura, coq au Riesling from Alsace (sounds interesting!), coq au pourpre which uses Beaujolais-Nouveau, coq au Champagne, etc.


            The dish is prepared with chicken braised in red wine, with lardons of pork, button mushrooms (or morels), onions, and garlic. Sometimes, if the recipe needs to be prepared quickly, a little brandy is also employed. Traditional seasonings – salt, pepper, thyme, parsley, bay leaves – are added, and the juices are thickened either by making a small roux at the beginning, or by adding blood at the end.


            An excellent recipe for coq au vin can be found at www.cuisine-france.com/recipes/coq_vin.htm  


            What wine pairs with coq au vin? A traditionalist might want to try a Burgundy such as René Lequin-Colin Bourgogne Pinot Noir 2009. But Rhone wines also work well and there’s no need to break the bank - try Ch. Cabrières Côte du Rhone Villages 2010 or the delicious Cave de Rasteau Côtes du Rhone Villages Dame Victoria 2010. A good wine from Beaujolais would also pair well. I suggest the Jean Saint Honoré Beaujolais-Villages Les Côtes Saint Cyr 2010.


            When you think about it what’s better to drink with your coq au vin than your favorite red wine?


Bill Stobbs, ABC Wine Supervisor


(Follow me on Twitter at abcwinebills)



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