Wine Pairing With A Galette des Rois
To honor and celebrate Epiphany, the day when the Three Kings (or Three Wise Men or The Magi) of the Bible find the Christ Child, we always had a galette des rois in my family. No, we weren’t Catholic, but having a French mom meant it was still part of her holiday celebrations. In Northern France it was the galette des rois, while in Southern France they called it the gâteau des rois, a brioche with candied fruits, though the custom also occurs in Catalonia and Greece. Traditionally, Epiphany is January 6th, which is also the Twelfth Night (of the Twelve Nights of Christmas, which actually begin on Christmas Eve) but this cake can be enjoyed up until Mardi Gras. There are “King Cakes” in many European traditions coming to the New World through the French to Quebec and the Cajun South. Southern “King Cakes” are more associated with Mardi Gras, and the cakes are much more colorful.
As a child I loved the pageantry since there was a trinket, la fève, placed inside the cake (either at the bakery or at home) and whoever received the piece with the prize was then crowned king (a golden paper crown was always included with the purchase of the cake). This part of the tradition was stolen from the Roman Saturnalia, where they used a bean, and the discoverer was called the “king of the feast.” In my childhood it was usually a ceramic figurine in the shape of a baby or a fleur de lys, or even a cartoon character. The galette itself is a giant croissant with frangipane in the middle, so buttery puff pastry with an almond paste inside. Of course I was devastated when I wasn’t the king, and I think a few years my mom cheated and just put the trinket in my piece to avoid a meltdown. There was always one more slice than the number of guests and that extra slice was the “share of the Virgin” and intended for the first poor person to come to the home (or for a small boy after all the guests depart who had to have a second slice).
I don’t think there is a specific wine pairing tradition associated with the galette des rois, though in my family it was often a sparkling Vouvray. Based on Chenin Blanc, this bubbly is a little sweeter than Champagne—yet still has some bright mineral notes, though another Sparkling Loire, like the Cuvee Alexandre, would work fine. In the same flavor profile, a softer Prosecco, like the Collalto Extra Dry Prosecco Superiore would substitute perfectly. The buttery richness and sweet almond character could lend to pairing with a Sauterne, or one of our more affordable sweet French options like the Ch. Loupiac Gaudiet 2007 or the Abbaye L’Estagel Muscat Petits Grains, the first being a neighbor of Sauternes and the latter a late harvest dessert Muscat from the Languedoc. If that’s too sweet, then maybe pump up the minerality with a German Riesling, like the Joy Spatlese. It has the sweetness of a later harvest but then also that bright mineral finish we associate with Mosel Rieslings, which will cut the buttery sweetness of the galette in a pleasant way. All of these options for pairing are under $15 per bottle, so you have many affordable choices. Create your own Epiphany tradition with this European foodie festivity, and for one night, who doesn’t want to be king?
Daniel Eddy
Northwest Florida Wine Supervisor for ABC Fine Wines & Spirits. Follow me on Twitter @abcwineDanE
Wine Pairing Examiner for Examiner.com
Ask your local wine consultant for recommendations!