We make a big deal about Old World versus New World in wine styles, but last year I attended a seminar where the topic was that these distinctions were geographically moot. Many Old World producers are modernizing and going for a New World style, no doubt trying to get those lucrative export dollars since that is the more fashionable style. Last month ABC Fine Wines & Spirits hosted a Rioja tasting and two of the wines we sampled really exemplified this distinction:  Marques de Riscal Rioja Reserva 2006 and Bai Gorri Rioja Crianza 2007.

First I must admit that I liked both of these wines, though I would pair them differently. I also have to admit that for pure visceral pleasure, I lean to the New World style, with all that ripe fruit and bold flavors. Secondly, these two wines do not have the same varietal composition. The Marques de Riscal is the classic Old World style of Rioja, and though it doesn’t state it on the bottle, I would bet that it is the more historical blend of grapes:  Tempranillo with Graciano, Mazuelo or Garnacha. Lighter colored, garnet-hued, this Rioja has a rustic nose, with hints of dried currants, cherries and smoky caramel notes plus that fresh tobacco we often associate with Tempranillo. I also get that classic cedar chest, but not as much of the spice box. There is real acid on the palate and a lingering farminess to this version of Rioja. These Old World style wines need food to balance their rustic acidity. I would pair the Riscal with a beef and wild mushroom stew, roast pork and Iberico cheese.

The Bai Gorri Rioja is a Crianza, so would have less oak aging than the Reserva, but being younger oak, it is more noticeable in this wine. This deep purple Rioja is 100% Tempranillo from Rioja’s smallest subzone, Rioja Alavesa (between Sierra Cantabria and the Ebro River). Here is a big nose of spice box and toasty oak with bold tannins on the palate. On second whiff I get those Tempranillo notes of cedar and tobacco, but fresher than the Riscal. Yes, I get hints of black cherry, but also rhubarb and licorice, with a nice herbal richness. Even though this wine is over five years old it may need a decanting to soften up these intense tannins. The Bai Gorri I would pair with lamb (using lots of Provencale herbs and garlic) or Manchego cheese. This New World style Rioja has loads of dense flavors and a lingering finish, though after two hours of being open I found the elegance and balance (another good reason to decant), yet it lost none of the complexity.

Rioja Wine Tasting at ABC

We are comparing two different vintages and two different blends, but they both represent Rioja very well, with just some variance in style. Most of the tasters preferred the New World style Bai Gorri, but a few really resonated with the Old World style Riscal. As I said, I like both and would pair the two wines with different meals (and maybe different guests). Try them both and see which of the two works best for you and do your own New World versus Old World comparison. Cheers!

Daniel Eddy

Northwest Florida Wine Supervisor for ABC Fine Wines & Spirits. Follow me on Twitter at @ABCwineDanE.

Wine Pairing Examiner for Examiner.com