I know we’ve already had blogs about some of the fantastic wines we are getting from the Roussillon, but having just revisited a few of the best this past week at ABC wine tastings—I have to put my two cents in. I’ve taught wine classes on Southern France where we sampled a range of Languedoc and Roussillon wines that all started at rustic, though most crossed the line into manure. There’s a pleasant farminess and then there’s an overwhelming farminess, and many of these older style Pays d’Oc wines were left to their natural state. Some of us actually have fond farm memories, and these earthy wines recalled those summers on my godparents’ farm, discovering the differences between horse manure and sheep manure (hay and grass, if you’re wondering). But to find these modern wines with incredible scores at very affordable prices, that still have loads of complexity and a very pleasant rusticity, yet bushels of ripe fruit, is quite a treat. These will be my wines for this year’s Christmas dinner, subtitled “Heart of Darkness.”

First there is the Bila Haut line from Chapoutier (a famous Rhône producer who has expanded westward), with the Occultum Lapidem at the center stage. The 2010 received a 95-97 score from Wine Advocate, and the 2011 received a 94-96, not too shabby for under $25 per bottle.  Think the depth and richness of a Châteauneuf du Pape, but with a little softer fruit due to abundant ripeness. There is density to this wine and a classic garrigue note we’d expect from Mediterranean France. The Occultum Lapidem (literally “secret stone” and they found a megalithic stone on the property) I would pair with roast lamb in a Provençale style, with plenty of garlic and rosemary, roasted eggplant or a really fine steak. All of the Bila Haut line is biodynamic and they range in prices from around $10 to the $25 for the Occultum. These are definitely worth checking out.

Second we have Domaine Thunevin-Calvet, with three options that all scored above 90 points from Wine Advocate, beginning with an excellent 2010 for $15 per bottle.  The 2008 “Les Dentelles,” for about $30, has incredible, teeth-staining tannins with a balance of minerality, rusticity and fruitiness. Aged just enough to soften those youthful tannins, without lessening their incredible length. The “Hugo,” for about $50, really exemplifies “big boy” Southern Rhône potential, and though it’s a 2008, it could use a decanting. The level of complexity was astounding and every time I returned to my glass I found something more, from anise to cassis, to just a hint of that farmy character we associate with the Rousillon but none of the manure. The “Hugo” has so much depth I find it harder to pair, but again lamb would be excellent, though a perfect filet mignon would also be a hit. The depth and richness will excite you, but the balance and elegance will impress and make you come back for more. This is a visit to the farm I can handle anytime. Cheers!

Daniel Eddy

Northwest Florida Wine Supervisor for ABC Fine Wines & Spirits. Follow me on Twitter @abcwineDanE.

Wine Pairing Examiner for Examiner.com.