Lake County’s Standup Grape?
Perennially overshadowed by its prestigious Napa Valley neighbor to the south, Lake County must often feel like the Rodney Dangerfield of California wine. You remember Rodney, right? He’s the comedian that used to shout “No Respect” as the punch-line part of his act.
Once the best kept secret in the region, this sleepy little corner of the North Coast has been garnering a solid reputation lately for high quality wines produced at consumer friendly price points.
In fact, Lake County succeeds at doing a very good impersonation of big Sonoma and Napa reds without the fanfare and pretention. Yes, Lake County is a little short on star power for now. But, give the region a little “respect” for dutifully slacking the thirst of discerning California wine drinkers demanding more bang for their buck these days.
What Lake County is missing in its standup routine is a signature grape variety that gives it some cache and distinguishes itself amongst its peers. Even that other North Coast AVA, Mendocino, has hit the big time with Anderson Valley Pinot Noir. It’s time for Lake County to find a better booking agent!
Maybe it could rest its laurels then upon Tempranillo, the red grape of Spain. I’ve tasted some very good Tempranillo bottlings lately from Lake County, including Six Sigma Ranch and Shannon Ridge Single Vineyard Collection. Taken on face value, this does make some sense. At a higher elevation than Napa Valley (up to 3500 feet), Lake County’s key vineyards sport an environment that’s readymade for this early ripening variety, especially High Valley AVA. The subsoil here is Franciscan shale instead of limestone, but on a sunny day (and if you squint a bit) the region does look a little like Ribera del Duero.
If you want to judge for yourself just how good Tempranillo from Lake County can be, check out the most recent release of Shannon Ridge Morine Ranch Tempranillo ($29.99). Winemaker Mike Wood emphasizes the grape’s signature black cherry fruit and spice notes by judiciously aging this scrumptious red in a 50/50 combo of new and used French oak.
Very tasty right now, especially with grilled lamb, this wine should improve nicely in your wine cellar in near term, too.
Jim Greeley, SW Florida Wine Supervisor
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