Albariño, the white grape of Rías Baixas, is back in the headlines here at ABCFWS in a big way.  Our newest arrival, the 2011 Bodegas La Val Orballo Albariño ($14.99) recently received a mountain of praise from Decanter Magazine, garnering an “Outstanding” rating (18.5/20 points) from the staff of this esteemed publication:

“Very refreshing and intense palate, full of citrus notes. Quite reductive style with smoky notes. Elegantly perfumed with extra layers of complexity. Very food friendly; very Albarino (Ferran Centelles). Lovely, mature-vine fruit and wood oil aromas. Subtle, mysterious and delicious. Rich citrus notes and crunchy fruit on the front and mid palate, but slightly fails to deliver on the finish (John Radford). Smoky, grassy, intense with notes of stewed gooseberries - the slightly spritz adds to the fresh impression. Acidity is marked, with a sherbet tang, but balanced by ripeness of the underlying fruit. Long (Sarah Jane Evans MW). Alc: 12.5%. Drink 2013-2016. 18.5pts/20 (95pts/100)” – reviewed 10-Feb-2013.

Albariño hails from Galicia in the northwest of Spain.  It’s the premier grape variety grown along the region’s craggy Atlantic coast, producing zesty, crisp, keenly vibrant wines with complex bouquet and persistence on the palate.  To me, it’s often reminiscent of green apple and juicy stone fruits with a dash of crushed stones for added measure.

Galicia is a bit of an anomaly when compared to the rest of sunny Spain.  Its climate is more akin to Seattle than Andalucía.  Having visited the region a few years ago, I was privileged to see firsthand the painstaking care implemented to produce world class wine in a difficult terroir.  The Albariño vines are trellised in a classic pergola system, allowing for ample circulation of brisk breezes through the clusters to alleviate grey rot, a common problem in vineyards prone to significant rainfall.  This permits them to ripen fully and evenly.  The cooler climate is also beneficial in maintaining freshness and promoting balanced acidity in the grapes.

The resulting wine is an ideal summer sipper, especially for fans of similar ABC whites (Anything But Chardonnay) like Pinot Grigio or Sauvignon Blanc.  I can attest to Albariño being a perfect partner for Galicia’s fresh local seafood, like spider crab and langoustines.  It’s also a great match with soft white cheeses and tapas.

Jim Greeley, SW Florida Wine Supervisor. Follow me on Twitter @abcwinejimg