Memorable Merlot from Italy
When is the last time you had a really memorable Italian Merlot? I know you are probably thinking "Merlot?" In a country populated with hundreds of indigenous grape varieties and numerous famous wines such as Barolo, Brunello and Chianti Classico just to name a few, why even ask the question about Italian Merlot?
Truth is this often maligned grape varietal is now the fifth most planted grape in Italy. It is planted throughout the peninsula from Alto Adige to Sicily. The styles of Italian Merlot vary considerably from region to region and producer to producer.
Tuscany is the region where Merlot has received the most attention. Merlot in Tuscany is oftentimes liberally used in the production of the immensely popular Bordeaux-style wines know as Super-Tuscans.
But what about my original question concerning really memorable Italian Merlot? On my most recent trip to Italy I had the opportunity to taste one of those unforgettable wines from one of my favorite producers, Petra.
Petra is one of a handful of truly outstanding wineries on the Tuscan coast. The spectacular architectural wonder is the home of some of the most exciting wines coming out of Italy today. Over lunch at the winery we were served the most recent vintages of their Cabernet Sauvignon (Potenti), Sangiovese (Alto) and Merlot (Quercegobbe). All three were compelling examples of 100% varietal wines but it was the Quercegobbe Merlot that I just couldn't get enough of.
Apparently I am not alone. In the October 31st 2013 issue of the Wine Spectator, Bruce Sanderson chose the 2008 Petra Quercegobbe Merlot as one of the top wines of Tuscany. The 2008 has not yet reached our stores but limited quanties of the 2007 Quercegobbe are still available. It "opens with super-ripe cherries, kirsch and the occasional hint of white truffle. Sweet baking spices, leather and licorice add complexity on the sauve, caressing finish." 92pts Wine Advocate.
Paul Quaglini, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Supervisor
Follow him on Twitter @abcwinepaulq
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