"You are going to be seduced,” wine critic and commentator Jeremy Oliver told us at the beginning of the first seminar of the first day of Savour Australia 2013 in Adelaide, the largest and most comprehensive forum on Australian wine ever held. And so indeed we were.

Aware that Australian wine sales and prestige have taken a dip here in the U.S. and elsewhere, Savour Australia is an all-out attempt to revitalize interest and to offer a new perception of what Aussie wine is all about.

The first emphasis was on quality. The myth of Aussie wine as cheap, entry-level stuff usually with a critter label had to be busted. Actually they did stand behind their bargain brands, saying that when these lines were first gaining recognition in international markets in the 90s, they were good quality for money wines--especially when compared to what France and Italy were putting out at the same price at the time. But now the moment has come to recognize that Australia contains hundreds and even thousands of wineries and winemakers committed to making wines of world-class quality and distinction. What I tasted during my two week visit to Australia certainly confirmed that view.

Another myth to be busted was that Australian wine was basically all about Shiraz and Chardonnay. While their gifted winemakers certainly can (and do) make something special with these varieties, Australia has so much more to offer. Of course we know there is some terrific Cabernet coming out of Oz, but have you ever considered Australian Riesling? There is so much great quality dry Riesling in Australia--beautifully balanced with good acidity and certainly age-worthy--that it is a wonder that the rest of the world hasn’t cottoned on to it yet. I came across some very good Grenache--not huge and in your face as anticipated but elegant and seductive--as well as Tempranillo and Mataro (Mourvedre). Pinot Noir--something that was never really associated with Oz in the past--is coming along beautifully. Likewise the Semillon and Semillon/Sauvignon blends are a treat. Albariňo also comes as a pleasant surprise (at least the more recent real stuff made after the embarrassing incident when the Aussies were sent the wrong vines and spent a few years producing something they thought was Albariňo but wasn’t). But the biggest surprise to me is the enthusiasm that many Australian winemakers now have for Italian varieties--Fiano, Vermentino, Primitivo, Sangiovese and yes, even Nebbiolo.

A further myth to be busted was that terroir does not matter in Australia. Many winemakers were quick to point out that because Australia has the oldest soil in the world terroir naturally has great importance, and regionality is becoming key. As for the vines, I was fortunate enough to stand and to taste the respective wines in vineyards containing arguably the oldest Shiraz (160 years old!), Grenache and Mourvedre vines in the world. Australia and Chile are about the only places on Earth that have original pre-phylloxera Old World vines, so there is a long and fascinating tradition here.

In presenting this new vision of Australian wine to the world, Savour Australia are clever to also tie in food and tourism. An interesting statistic was brought up:  when people who have never visited Australia rate how good they imagine Aussie cuisine is they rate it quite low, while people who have visited Australia rate their cuisine right up there at the top with France and Italy. The tie-in to tourism here is also obvious as current statistics show that people who travel no longer do so primarily to see monuments and historical sites. Instead, they do it to experience the unique lifestyle of the country, of which food and wine is an important component.

But enough of facts and statistics for now. My own personal part in ‘the Australian Seduction’ begins right here in two weeks’ time…

Bill Stobbs, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Supervisor

Follow me on Twitter @abcwinebills