Sauvignon Blanc is one of those grapes that, depending on how and/or where it is being produced, makes wildly different wines. Love one, hate another—I get it, they are not anything alike! The trick is getting to know what to expect from this chameleon of a wine grape. So what do you need to be aware of?

I’ll admit, early on in my wine drinking experience I was not a fan. The Sauvignon Blancs that I came across years ago were too “green” for my tastes. Typical examples from those days might have a pronounced a grassy or green pepper taste. I’ll stick to Chardonnay or a nice dry Riesling, thank you very much, I thought. Then one day at a restaurant tasting I tried a New Zealand Sauvignon. What was this? Ruby red grapefruit, passion fruit, gooseberries, zippy acidity? Nice!

California has come around lately, producing wonderful Sauvignon Blanc—look to Lake County for some good examples. Shannon Ridge makes a good citrus driven one, so does Girls in the Vineyard. Mineral, good acidity and citrus come across, making them a fine pair with seafood or a just a great afternoon quaff.

If you see “Fume Blanc” on the label, this is also Sauvignon Blanc. Robert Mondavi coined this name and it generally refers to SBs that have seen some oak barrel aging, a practice that should be reserved for Chardonnays and reds if you ask me.

What do I really want if I am willing to pony up a few more dollars and pairing a wine with a pile of fresh oysters, mussels or clams? Well, that comes from France’s Loire Valley. Sancerre is what I am looking for, the best of which is grown upon the remains of the shellfish that they go so well with. Gueneau Sancerre Les Clos Chartier is a fine example with bright lemon, gooseberry and just a hint of herb.

Lenny Bell, wine consultant at ABC Fine Wine & Spirits in Sarasota. Follow me on Twitter @abcwinelennyb.