Last month we hosted a special weekend wine tasting of four different Riojas at our store, ranging in price from $10 to $35 per bottle. We host free wine samplings every weekend, but it’s less common to have such a specific geographical focus with such a range of prices. This sampling gave me an opportunity to really talk about the region, Rioja, and some of the differences in locations, like Rioja Alta versus Rioja Baja, and differences in aging from Crianzas to Reservas. We sampled one Rioja that was the classical blend of grapes and three that were the more modern style of 100% Tempranillo. I even found one that I think works perfectly for any upcoming holiday meal (which might include turkey or ham).
I started the tasting with the most reasonably priced option of the four, Campo Vieja Crianza 2007, at $10 per bottle. This Rioja is the classic blend of 85% Tempranillo, 10% Garnacha and 5% Mazuelo, spending 12 months aging in oak barrels. I perceive soft and ripe black fruits on the nose with a hint of herbs. The flavors shift to tart red currants on the palate, finishing with a touch of spice box, light oak and just a whiff of mocha at the last. This is a great beginner Rioja that comes across more like a Merlot than like a Cabernet, and I’d pair it with lighter fare, like a meaty paella or milder cheeses like Spanish Tetilla or Dutch Gouda.
Our second Rioja was the Capitoso 2007, which is 100% Tempranillo and tastes like old-style Riojas with a rustic and earthy nose. I get some sharp acid on the mid-palate with a slight vegetal or herbal quality. As the wine crosses my tongue I experience dried cherries and rich loam with just a hint of fresh tobacco. This Rioja has a more astringent, oaky finish than the first, with just a hint of cedar at the very end. This wine would pair nicely with osso buco (which is Italian, but Spanish oxtail would also work) because of the more rustic notes to the wine. I might pair this Rioja with a heartier cheese like Spanish Mahon or French Mimolette. Here is an affordable Rioja for the real classicists for only $12 per bottle.
Our third Rioja was the Bai Gorri Crianza 2005 which is also 100% Tempranillo and spends 14 months in French and American oak. The grapes are sourced from the smallest subzone of Rioja: Rioja Alavesa. The six years of aging have softened this wine leaving a velvety texture on the palate. Plum and cedar erupt from my glass, with smoothly integrated tannins and no hint of alcoholic heat. I smell cassis and just a whiff of licorice on the finish with just a tiny touch of aged cedar. This is an easy-quaffing Crianza, perfectly aged and ready to drink now. Bai Gorri would be my pick for a Rioja to go with the typical turkey-focused holiday meal, though it would pair nicely with ham or lamb as well. I might go for some softer, richer cheeses like Italian Taleggio or French Epoisses to pair with this Rioja. It also scored 90 points from Wine Enthusiast and 91 from Wine Advocate, so the experts agree, and it’s a great bargain at just under $20 per bottle.
If we were just looking at scores then the last Rioja we sampled would be the king, the 100% Tempranillo 2005 Lealtanza Selección Especial Reserva. My first sense is of marinara and cedar spice box on the nose, but other tasters perceived numerous aromas. There is real depth on the palate, approaching Haut Medoc style, with dried cherries and currants, mingling with a smoky oak bouquet creating a lingering finish. This wine has deep flavors and loads of complexity, including cola and black licorice at the last. I might suggest decanting, as I found the wine to soften with airing, leaving a lush and velvety sensation on the tongue. This Lealtanza has earned its consistent 90+ scores, and I’d pair this with a big rib eye or stronger cheeses like Spanish Manchego or Cabrales. At $35 per bottle, the Lealtanza was the priciest but matches or surpasses Bordeauxs that are twice the price. This is a wine to remember.
Keep a lookout for future geographically specific tastings at your local ABC, as they are such a great opportunity to expand your knowledge about one region. Your local Wine Consultant should send you a message to let you know (if you’ve given him or her your email address) or check out the calendar on the ABC website for future events. I hope you try some of these Riojas or some of our other special offerings from Spain. Happiest of Holidays to one and all!
Daniel Eddy is a wine consultant at our Newberry Road store in Gainesville, Florida.
He's also writes about wine pairings for Examiner.com--you can read more of his suggestions at http://www.examiner.com/wine-pairing-in-gainesville/daniel-eddy
