Pinot Grigio Alternatives
Pinot Grigio Alternatives
Italy is simply a food and wine lover’s paradise. Home to more than a thousand indigenous grape varietals, Italy is also a country where almost every village has a native wine grape. Coincidently, it offers an array of unique, food-friendly dry whites that don’t go by the name Pinot Grigio. Many of these lesser-known wines are a better match for pairing with soft cheeses, pesto pasta, or fresh seafood.
Start with the original white grape of Tuscany, Vernaccia di San Gimignano, for a crisp wine with subtle floral, citrus and almond notes. Torre Terza Vernaccia di San Gimignano ($19.99), grown in vineyards with abundant clay and limestone, is a great example of the style.
Another local grape that’s making a splash is Vermentino. In the Maremma, the coastal region of Tuscany, Vermentino develops notes of apricot, herbs and flowers. Try the delicate Acquaguista Vermentino ($14.19) produced by Tenuta La Badiola or the richer flavors of Fattoria Querciarossa’s Fonte della Serpi ($19.99).
Vermentino is also a staple on the island of Sardinia where it’s an ideal choice with the local seafood. The Aragosta Vermentino from Cantina Santa Maria La Palma ($12.99) is a great match with shrimp scampi, lobster or tuna.
Perhaps the reference point for distinctive Italian white wines is the region of Campania. Vesuvius, the infamous volcano that once destroyed the ancient city of Pompeii, now lends its slopes and volcanic subsoil to a host of native grapes including Falanghina and Greco Bianco. Enjoy the Falanghina Benevento Lila ($12.19) and Greco di Tufo Nestor ($17.29) bottlings from Tenuta Cavalier Pepe with Campania’s world-famous cheese: mozzarella di bufala.
The island of Sicily is home to the obscure Insolia variety and is blessed with plenty of warm sunshine. As you would expect, the climate yields a white with juicy, exotic fruit and lush tropical flavors. Back in 2009, I visited with Casa Vinicola Zonin winemaker Antonio Cufari. We had lunch over his Fuedo Prinicipi di Butera Insolia ($12.99). It paired wonderfully with antipasti, bruschetta and a frittata made with potato and peas.
Jim Greeley, SW FL wine supervisor
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