High Valley Petite Syrah Meets Seven Sinners Petite Sirah
What was your first? After being in the business for well over twenty years, I’m not sure who was my first Petite Sirah. Maybe it was the Bogle Petite Sirah? I can see the original pheasant on black label. Or perhaps it was Guenoc? I vaguely remember a pink label having a cameo. But only when I discovered some of the richer, old vine Petites did I become besotted with the grape. Like Zinfandel, it can reach heady heights of flavor and alcohol content (some can broach 16% alcohol), but unlike Zin, it has a little more garrigue and black pepper like its Rhone relative Syrah, giving an earthy complexity. Most experts define Petite Sirah as Peloursin and Duriff, the latter being a cross between Peloursin and Syrah. Petite Sirah tends to have more explosive fruit than the typical Syrah, and region can certainly have a major impact. Two of my favorite spots for California Petite Sirah are Lodi, in the Sierra Foothills, and Lake County, just north of Napa Valley.
From Lake County, I’ve recently enjoyed the High Valley 2011 Petite Syrah (you can use a “y” or not use a “y” though most people agree on the “i” spelling to further differentiate Petite Sirah from Syrah/Shiraz). This wine exploded in my glass like a gigantic fruit bomb. Cassis, loganberry and black cherry jump out at me with a secondary layer of spice cake and vanilla, thanks to some judicious use of oak, which also brings some structure and hints of toast. The overall sense of this wine is lush and ripe, almost a dizzying ripeness, yet it finishes with some good acidity and maintains spice. All of this for just $15? What a bargain! We can thank our good friend Clay Shannon, of Shannon Ridge, Cross Springs and Vigilance wines for this incredible, and sustainable, Lake County Petite Sirah.
From Lodi, we tried the Seven Sinners 2010 Old Vines Petite Sirah. My first sense of this Petite Sirah is brooding. It is dark and dense, yet a little more reserved than the High Valley, with a hint of elegance. Yes, “brooding elegance.” Who’d a thunk it?
Blackberry compote on puff pastry would be my second sense of this wine, with hints of white pepper on the palate. There are tannins, but of the softer and smoother type, though it finishes with hints of cedar as well as oak and vanilla. There is still enough acidity to make it a fine food pairing wine. Robust and expressive would be my final description, yet not quite as explosive as the High Valley, making it a nice contrast. At $17 per bottle we are still at a very affordable price, and I might pair these two Petite Sirahs with slightly different meals.
It certainly helps that Petite Sirahs generally pair with many of my favorite foods, like barbecue and grilled meats, bringing on the sweet, spicy and smoky flavors. I might pair the High Valley with pork tenderloin in a fruity marinade or with a vegetarian fare like a sweet potato, kidney bean and coconut milk casserole. The Seven Sinners might work a little better with a pepper-rubbed steak, or smoked pork with southern sides like Hopping John and collards. If you haven’t had a lot of Petite Sirah, then these are two great ones to start. Even though it originated in the Rhone Valley, Petite Sirah has become a United States grape, like Zinfandel. This makes it a fine wine to pair with Thanksgiving, since it can work well with turkey or ham and would pair nicely with the array of sides we associate with the holiday. Try a Thanksgiving with Petite Sirah and you will be pleasantly surprised. Enjoy!
Daniel Eddy
Northwest Florida Wine Supervisor for ABC Fine Wines & Spirits
Wine Pairing Examiner for Examiner.com
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