I’m setting the bar pretty high with that title, but I’ve learned to change the paradigm when pairing family get-togethers. Even if I pair the meal perfectly with my wine selection, I’ll disappoint someone in my family because they loved something else more than my perfect pairing. So that is my secret to a perfectly paired Thanksgiving repast: pair the family members/guests rather than the meal.

My French grandmother loved Vouvray, my American aunts needed that blush of White Zinfandel, my English grand aunt and Scottish grand uncle preferred an Aussie Chardonnay, while my mom still requires Beaujolais Nouveau, which she almost never finishes, preferring to try what I bring for myself and then proceed to finish what I bring, leaving me to the Nouveau. It’s a tradition to have a Nouveau, so I honor the tradition (and bring an extra bottle for me, just in case). I tend to like bolder reds, so I’ll bring a Zinfandel or a Petite Sirah, though I’ve brought Aussie Shiraz, Argentine Malbec, Italian Ripasso and Spanish old vine Garnacha over the years. I like a little novelty, so I’ll pick the new version of something I’ve loved in the past. Choosing Zinfandel and/or Petite Sirah is almost like choosing America’s very own grape (though they both originated in Europe). Personally, I just don’t love Muscadine enough to make it my indigenous varietal of choice, though it is the only truly North American grape. This year to honor my American father I’m bringing the 2011 Nontypical Red Blend from Lake County, California. Nontypical because it blends Zinfandel and Petite Sirah with Cabernet Sauvignon, so I get the best of both worlds: abundant fruit to pair with cranberry sauce and great tannic structure to give depth and finish. Because it’s a blend, it’s not too heavy for Turkey Day, though it is heavier than a Nouveau, but I like them bold and fruity.

In the past I tried to enforce pairing rules and used the tried and true duo: Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The Chardonnays were not “sweet” enough for some, and were too oaky for the rest. Occasionally I’d hit a goldmine and take out two or even three with one choice, like Viognier. Floral and fruity, it could work for both a Vouvray and an Aussie Chardonnay fan, since it also has a hint of butteriness on the palate. The fruity nose might even fool my White Zin aunts (or if need be, I can add a packet full of Splenda), but you don’t find these double duty wines every year. For a white choice this year I’m choosing a French Viognier: one, to honor my mother’s heritage and two, in remembrance of past Thanksgiving successes. The 2012 Pic & Chapoutier Viognier will be an excellent Thanksgiving wine that balances floral fruitiness and mineral acidity, so I’m bringing it.

The Beaujolais Nouveau is non negotiable, even though there are fewer of us Nouveau-ites each year. I’d choose bolder producers of Beaujolais Nouveau like Jean St. Honoré. This Nouveau has some gumption and a little more depth, or you can pick last year’s Beaujolais Villages for some oak aging to give complexity. In the end, for a peaceful repast full of thanks and giving, pair the family first, and the feast second. That shows real familial love. Happy Thanksgiving!

Daniel Eddy

Northwest Florida Wine Supervisor for ABC Fine Wines & Spirits. Follow me on Twitter @ABCwineDanE.

Wine Pairing Examiner for Examiner.com