The Australian Seduction (Part Four)
Earlier parts of this blog appeared on Oct. 17, Oct. 31 and Nov. 14.
With the conclusion of Savour Australia 2013 and the magnificent tasting and dinner at the Yalumba Wine Museum, it was time to take to the road and visit some of the wine regions of Australia. This is always a very special part of a visit to me. To get out in the vineyard, walk around with the winemaker and see the general lay of the land--these are things that bring a heightened understanding to the wines that you enjoy.
For the next two days we were still a large group, and we began with a morning visit to the Jacob’s Creek Steingarten Riesling Vineyard, on a steep east-facing rocky outcrop (hence the name ‘stone garden’) in the Western Barossa ranges. Here in the U.S. we don’t usually associate Riesling with Australian wine, but they drink a lot of it out there and believe me its delicious--crisp and dry with excellent balance and acidity. And it’s the perfect start to a day of wine tasting! This was followed by a tasting of Jacob’s Creek Reserve wines at the Orlando Rowland Flat winery hosted by Bernard Hickin, the Chief Winemaker. And for those who only know Jacob’s Creek wines by their entry-level wines, these reserve wines are a treat.
Next came a spectacular lunch served out of doors at Jacob’s Creek historic Heritage Vineyard, where founder Johann Gramp planted his first vines on the banks of Jacob’s Creek in 1847.
After lunch we attended a tasting of Jacob’s Creek’s fine wines and museum releases including many of their famed St. Hugo wines. The day turned out to be auspicious because it happened to be the 30th anniversary of the first release of St. Hugo wines as well as the birthday of Hugo Gramp (1885-1938), the grandson of founder Johann Gramp, for whom the wine is named.
To celebrate, Orlando Wines were planting a new St. Hugo Vineyard and we were each given the honor of planting our own Shiraz vine. At the side of the vine that I planted is a plaque with my name on it, and I was told that I’m welcome to visit it at any time.
Dinner that night included Coffin Bay Pacific oysters with soba noodle and seaweed salad, cucumber jelly and wasabi flying fish roe; Barossa duck breast with beetroot relish, sour cherries and crispy kale; Lucindale Dry aged A Hereford beef; and an amazing selection of St. Hugo wines in vintages going back to 1994 as well as a 1983 Orlando Wines Vintage Port to finish.
The next day we set out for Block 42 and its 100 year old Cabernet Sauvignon vines from which the esteemed Penfold’s Block 42 Kalimna wine is sourced. This 10-acre vineyard in Barossa is noted for having the oldest plantings of continuously produced Cabernet Sauvignon vines in the world. It was a great pleasure to be able to drink the wine in the vineyard itself.
From there we moved on to Saltram for a formal tasting followed by another delicious lunch. During lunch we met the irrepressible 79 year old Wolf Blass. Definitely a larger than life and plain speaking character, this bow-tie bedecked gentleman--born in Germany--became the golden boy of the Australian wine industry and founder of the well-known Wolf Blass wines. And at 79 years old he’s as salty and straight-forward as ever with his opinions.
That night we were guests for dinner at Penfolds Magill Estate Restaurant. One of Australia’s most coveted restaurants, Magill had been closed for some time for renovations and had reopened only two weeks before. The menu included pork belly with cauliflower and macadamia; venison with turnip and onion; and wagyu beef with garlic and watercress. And amongst the Penfold wines--2006 Yattarna Chardonnay, 2005 St Henri Shiraz, 2006 Magill Estate Shiraz, 2002 Bin 707 Cabernet Sauvignon and 2003 Grange all served en magnum.
Truly a memorable evening. And the next morning--a visit to Clare Valley…
Bill Stobbs, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Wine Supervisor
Follow me on Twitter @abcwinebills
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