There are many misconceptions about Chardonnay.  One is asking for a Chardonnay with lots of oak, when you are really looking for a buttery Chardonnay. The problem is that different types of oak barrels impart flavors to Chardonnay like caramel, butterscotch, vanilla, etc. Butter, however, is not one of them. That “buttery” quality comes from a process that all wines, especially Chardonnay, go through during fermentation called "malolactic conversion.” The malic acid (like the tart acid of a Granny Smith apple is converted into lactic acid, which gives you that buttery taste).

 Julia Child used to say nutmeg is a great ingredient to use; however, if anyone ever says "I love the nutmeg in that recipe,” you have used too much nutmeg. That is the way I feel about oak in Chardonnay. If you taste a tree, you have used too much oak. Hopefully, this short explanation will help you decide what flavors you’re looking for, and a better idea of what to ask for.

 The number one request I get from my guests who often buy those expensive California Chardonnays is they want me to select a California Chardonnay that is made in the "Burgundian" style (like in Burgundy, France). That request baffles me: because if they want a California Chardonnay made like a French Chardonnay, why not just buy the French one at a lower price? Well, one reason might be the challenge of reading French wine labels. For example, those of you who thought that Burgundy wine, red or white, was a type of wine only found in large bottles at a low price, I’ve got news: while it is a name applied to table wines of a certain style, more importantly, it’s also a region in France. There are many villages in Burgundy, including  CHABLIS (a name that also appears on certain large bottles of wine that taste nothing like Chablis from France!), POUILLY FUISSE, MERSAULT, PULIGNY MONTRACHET, CHASSAGNE MONTRACHET.....all Chardonnay when the color of the wine is white. Red wines from Burgundy are 100% Pinot Noir, although again from different villages. When the wines come from all different vineyards in Burgundy, France it is just labeled Bourgogne (Burgundy) Chardonnay for white, Pinot Noir for red. 

 

One of the rising stars of the Burgundy region is Rene Colin Lequin and his wines are sold exclusively at ABC Fine Wines and Spirits. For the budget-minded, his Bourgogne Chardonnay is delicious, not over oaked, and a pure expression of the grape. For those who buy high priced California Chards, I suggest the Rene Lequin Colin Chassagne Montrachet. It is creamy and the perfect balance of crisp, creamy fruit and minerals with moderate alcohol levels. It is delicious and more affordable than many California high end bottlings.

 These and many other French Chardonnays are such great values, I wonder now if guests will start asking for French Chardonnays made in the California style?

Grape-fully yours,

Larry Baker - Certified Sommelier/Wine Consultant Pompano Beach Location

If you like, you can read more of Larry’s wine writings on his personal website, www.larrythewineguy.net.