The Forgotten Summertime Wine: Vinho Verde
The summer heat is definitely here. Maybe you’ve been working up a sweat pushing the lawnmower around. Maybe you’re standing at your grill craving something thirst-quenching to drink. Maybe you’re putting together a picnic lunch and fancy a wine that is light and refreshing to pair with it.
Some may scoff, but I’ll stick my neck out and say – “Try vinho verde!”
Vinho verde is a wine from northern Portugal, originally from the now-dissolved Minho Province, though now the DOC includes the northeastern Portuguese coast from the Douro on up which is often referred to as the Costa Verde. Wine has been made here since Roman times (the wines of the area are mentioned by both Pliny and Seneca) and the first record of a winery goes back to 870 AD.
The name translates as “green wine” though this has nothing to do with its color. Instead the term indicates fresh or young wine. Vinho verde should be drunk young - within a year of bottling. And contrary to popular perception vinho verde is not only a white wine. It is also made as a red and a rosé, though these are rarely exported out of the country.
As I say, some wine geeks may scoff at this wine because it is usually very inexpensive and because it is light and low in alcohol – over 11.5% is not allowed. But I would suggest that any wine that has a long history, that offers distinct regional characteristics, and that uses indigenous grapes must be of some interest.
Historically, the vines were trained in the enforçado method – raised up above the ground on trees, fences, and even telegraph poles. This allowed for the cultivation of other ground crops, as well as reduced the rot on the grapes due to the area’s high rainfall. This method can still be seen, though it was eventually replaced by using pergolas which created long green tunnels of vines. More modern and machine-friendly methods such as cruzetas are now used.
Many local grape varieties can be used. For white wines, among others – Loureiro, Arinto, Trajadura, Avesso, Azal, and Alvarinho (aka Albariño in Spain), though this last grape is often bottled as a single varietal – Vinho Alvarinho. Red grapes include Vinhão, Borraçal and Amaral. Rosé grapes include Espadeiro and Padeiro.
But what about the wine itself?
Recently I tasted the Las Lilas Vinho Verde 2011 ($8.99) which arrived at our ABC stores a few weeks ago. As this is a simple style of wine I don’t think I need to wring out too many adjectives or take the wine apart in any detailed way. Suffice it to say that the wine is light and fresh, with a natural acidity and displays faint but pleasant fruity and floral aromas. It could not quite be referred to as semi-sparkling but has a definite pétillance or prickliness on the tongue which can be delightful on a hot summer day. The presentation, the label itself is also simple but pleasant.
So try vinho verde at your next summer picnic. You’ll find it also pairs well with simple seafood and most Asian cuisine. But I suggest you buy more than one bottle. This stuff goes down very easily!
Bill Stobbs, ABC Wine Supervisor
(Follow me on Twitter at abcwinebills)
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