Archive for August 2012

Home Archive for August 2012

Continuing travel memoir from Laurence Phillips, one of the wine consultants visiting Napa last week.

The day after Caymus, we visited the impressive Domaine Chandon Napa Valley Sparkling Wine House. We had the honor to be taken on a very informative tour and tasting with Ken Stayner, Chandon Lead Ambassador. This was followed by an incredible meal at the onsite Michelin starred restaurant “etoile,” which originally opened in 1977.

In 1973, Domaine Chandon became the first French-owned sparkling wine venture in the United States. The famous Champagne producer Moet & Chandon and acclaimed Cognac maker Hennessey combined forces with the mission of producing world class sparkling wine in Napa Valley. They identified prime vineyard sites at Carneros, in Mt.Veeder and Yountville, the location Domaine Chandon now calls home.

Chandon’s first sparkling wine was released in 1976. In 1977, the Visitor Center was opened.

As we started the tour Ken explained that Chandon had already begun their harvest on the 12^th August 2012. Chandon is one of the first to harvest in Napa given that they are looking for fruit at the beginning stages of ripeness with grapes high in acid and lower in sugar. Preparation for harvest was a common theme in the other wineries we had visited with many of them just having finished bottling to free up space.

We got to see the long row of 14,100 gallon stainless steel tanks. Next we visited the large barrel room, where we also got to see the huge riddling machine.

Chandon grows the three primary grapes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier used in sparkling wine.

The production of still wine is 10 - 15% with sparkling wine being 85 - 90%.

Chandon sources their fruit from three locations with 25 vineyards and 1000 acres of vines.

Mount Veeder Vineyards - planted with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Carneros Vineyards - planted with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.

Yountville Vineyards - planted with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

We were given a run through the methode traditionnelle production process used at Chandon. It involves:

Making and blending base wine. Base wine from past vintages is added to maintain consistency.

Secondary fermentation prompted with addition of a liqueur de tirage ( sugar syrup and base wine ) plus yeast. A Bidul ( small plastic hollow plug device ) is fitted into bottle neck and then it is crown capped. During the second fermentation, the carbon dioxide produced is locked inside the wine.

Aging on yeast lees from 18 months to 7 years depending on quality designation. Yeast lees impart flavors to the wine such as toast and brioche. The more time the wine spends in contact with the lees the more these flavors are imparted.

Riddling to gently push yeast sediment into the neck of bottle. An automated very large machine ( VLM ) that holds 4000 bottles is used to perform this function.

Disgorging - the yeast lees removal process. The bottle neck is frozen, the bidul containing frozen yeast lees is removed from bottle leaving a clear sparkling wine.

Dosage or top up - adding liqueur d’expedition ( base wine and sugar ) to fill bottle back to full level. This is were the dry / sweetness levels of the sparkling wine is determined. There are several designations from from bone dry to sweet as follows. Brut Zero - Extra Brut - Brut - Extra Dry - Sec - DemiSec - Doux.

A cork is inserted, with a capsule and wire cage securing it in place.

We had the pleasure of tasting the following wines, along with meeting winemaker Tom Tiburzi:

Chandon Brut Classic - Chardonnay driven refreshing , soft, dry sparkler with apple / citrus notes.

Chandon Blanc de Noirs - a Pinot Noir / Pinot Meunier blend, creamy texture with hints of strawberry.

Chandon Rose - Chardonnay with Pinot Noir, a vibrant fruity sparkler with watermelon and strawberry.

Chandon Extra Dry Riche - Chardonnay with 30% Muscat, luscious with peach, honey & apricot.

Chandon Etoile Brut - 65% Chardonnay / 35% Pinot Noir - Aged 5 years sur lie, a graceful vibrant sparkling wine with notes of honey, toasted almonds, lemon custard and apple.

Chandon Etoile Rose - 65% Pinot Noir / 35% Chardonnay - Aged 5 years sure lie, a refined complex sparkling wine with notes of plum, nutmeg, cocoa, ginger and truffles and tiny bubbles.

Domaine Chandon also produces single varietal still wine, and we tasted Chandon Carneros Chardonnay, Chandon Pinot Meunier, Chandon Pinot Noir; Chandon has also introduced a Cabernet Sauvignon to their still wine range.

The still wine that really stood out for me was the Pinot Meunier. It was a unique wine with an earthy, spicy character. It had notes of lavender, plum, pepper, nutmeg and a luscious finish.

Laurence Phillips, Wine Consultant, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Store 017, Viera, Melbourne.

Several of our wine consultants just returned from a trip to Napa, so look for winery notes and travel memoirs coming up over the next several weeks.

We visited the beautiful understated Caymus tasting room where the emphasis is clearly focused on the wine. We sat outside in the picnic area with the warm Napa sunshine beaming down on us.

We had the pleasure of tasting four wines presented by Mike Pramuk, Wine Educator for Caymus (pictured here with our wine team and Alex Poreda of SWS).

Mer Soleil Silver 2011 Unoaked Chardonnay, Santa Lucia Highlands, Monterey; Belle Glos 2010 Las Alturas Vineyard Pinot Noir, Santa Lucia Highland, Monterey; Caymus 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley; Caymus Special Selection 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley.

Caymus was founded by the Wagner Family in 1972. Today it is a one family operation with multiple wineries in some of the most outstanding vine land regions of California.

It is one of the world’s most respected Cabernet Sauvignon producers with the Special Selection leading the way. Caymus' annual production of Cabernet Sauvignon is circa 100,000 cases ,with 15,000 being the Special Selection.

Caymus draws their Cabernet Sauvignon from 800 acres of vines from eight Napa Valley AVAs (American Viticultural Areas) including Stags Leap, Howell Mountain, Mount Veeder, Atlas Peak, Spring Mountain, Diamond Mountain, Oakville and Rutherford.

Of great interest to me was the core difference between the Caymus and the Caymus Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon. From an instant taste point of view the Special Selection had amazing fruit concentration with silky smoothness whereas the regular Caymus had dusty tannins evident, perhaps given the vintage--it is still a little young.

The difference in the two Cabernets is Chuck Wagner, the winemaker of Caymus, and his selection of the top 10% of fruit from across all the vineyards that is used to make the Special Selection. The fruit comes from warmer regions, producing riper, smaller berries giving a slightly higher alcohol level.

Another difference is time spent on oak with the Special Selection Cabernet getting 18 months, and the regular Caymus 16 months. The Special Selection is usually 100% Cabernet Sauvignon; the 2009 bottling had 13% Merlot.

From the grapevine: Caymus may produce a Merlot in the future.

Laurence Phillips, Wine Consultant, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Store 017, Viera, Melbourne.

The things we do here at ABC for our cherished guests! A couple of days ago our crack team of wine gurus gathered at our corporate office once again to taste through a plethora of wines in search of the very best and widest selection (as well as the best price) for you.

I always say that these days, thanks to knowledge and technology, there are more great wines from more places in the world than there ever have been in the past. At this meeting, for example, we tasted Cannonau from Sardinia (delicious by the way!), Txakoli from northern Spain, Grauburgunder and Weissburgunder from Germany, Vinho Verde Rosé from Portugal, Malbec Rosé from Argentina, Pinotage from South Africa, an Italian Carménère (some say not the same grape as Carménère from Chile) and Oseleta blend, an Austrian Grüner Veltliner with a beer bottle top, and a pink Riesling from Chile. Not to mention all the usual suspects – Cabernets, Pinot Noirs, Chardonnays, Moscatos, Merlots, and Sauvignon Blancs from dozens of different wine areas and countries.

Sometimes we refuse these wines because we feel we already have better examples of them to offer. Sometimes we feel that the price is too high for the quality of the wine offered. Occasionally we feel that the packaging and labeling is downright shoddy. But here’s the strange thing – for all I said about more great wine from more places in the world than ever before, it’s amazing how much bad or indifferent wine is still out there on offer.

And that’s part of what we do too! We act as a buffer between the consumer and some pretty terrible wine. For every delicious bottle of vino you try from your ABC store, our wine team has had to wade through a dozen or so dogs. So what we do may sound like fun – and very often it is! – but occasionally it can be a real chore, made worthwhile only by the fact that our guests who shop at ABC can be guaranteed the best wine available from any region or grape variety at a variety of price ranges.

Cheers to you all! Don’t forget to try a wine you’ve never had before.

Bill Stobbs, ABC Wine Supervisor

(Follow me on Twitter at abcwinebills)

The third Pinot Noir is the Fleur 2010 Carneros, burgundy purple in color and $18 per bottle. I smell ripe black cherry aromas at first leading to a sense of black pepper and blackberry doing battle in my mouth. The ripe and jammy fruits definitely win out, and it has a smoother and richer mouthfeel common to Carneros Pinots. It opens to pomegranate, black pepper and spice, with a hint of cocoa and a long finish. Though jammy, there is still some good acidity in this wine. The first food to come to my mind is a classic Paté de Campagne, the usual style, with pork and liver as well as some mushrooms or nuts, maybe even pignoli. You can make it yourself or pick one up at your local grocer (or even from some of our fancier ABCs). I might also pair this wine with grilled Portobello mushrooms over a spinach salad with some baked Brie on the side. Dutch Aged Gouda or Parrano would be my first cheese choices, since their salty richness would play well with the vibrant acidity of this cooler clime Pinot, yet still have a soft sweetness on the finish.

Our final Pinot is the Mahoney 2008 Carneros with violet purple tones and a price tag of $24. My first scent is of loam and fresh mushrooms, reminiscent of Burgundy, but including Cassis liqueur, also from Burgundy. Blackberry, black currants and licorice hit my tongue, as this is a ripe and rich wine, almost a fruit bomb, but with just enough acidity to bring real structure and complexity. I’m left with a perception of smooth elegance and a rich mouthfeel. After opening up I get hints of Damson plum and sasparilla soda with a long finish. My first thought is to pair with an Ahi Tuna Steak, which I like “blue” or just barely seared on each side. Maybe cooked with an Asian-inspired marinade with just a hint of heat, since this is a jam-packed wine. Pinots can work very well with fatty fishes, so salmon and tuna often come to mind. Another thought would be to pair with pork tenderloin, again using some of the wines flavors in the potential sauce, so black currant or plum would match well. Maybe some fennel, sliced and slow-roasted as a side would hint at the licorice without overwhelming. For the cheese my top fave is Burgundy’s Epoisses, which has a decadent earthy richness that would sing with this wine. If unavailable then maybe you can try Reblechon or just some potent Camembert.

Balance is always key in pairing and hints are better than slaps in the face. What these Pinots all share is abundant acidity, so these juicy wines don’t seem over-extracted and flabby. Cool weather in each of these locales helps, but it’s definitely the art of the winemaker at play and there is a “house style” to these wines. My personal favorite was the Mahoney, but I’m happy with all of these very food friendly wines at a range of prices. As I said, pairing is an art not a science, but an art that any of us can enjoy, so pick up a bottle and create your own perfect Pinot pairing.

Cheers!

Daniel Eddy, Fine Wine Consultant for ABC in Gainesville, Florida

Wine Pairing Examiner for Examiner.com http://www.examiner.com/wine-pairing-in-gainesville/daniel-eddy

Wine pairing is an art, not a science. Like many arts it can ape the scientific method, because there are patterns one can define, but the deepest truth is subjectivity, especially when it comes to taste and the tasting process. My tongue is not in your mouth, and vice versa. We can come to common ground, and that is the true art, coming up with combinations that most people like, though not necessarily all. On a past Top Chef I was thrilled when they used the statistic that only about 10% of pairings fail, and then maybe 10% are truly sublime, which still leaves us an 80% chance of pretty darn good to not so bad, which should empower us to want to pair more.

Today I am analyzing four Pinot Noirs that are all from the same producer, but from different locations and vintages. Even though they are the same varietal and they have the same wine maker, there are significant differences in these wines. Therefore I am coming up with different pairings for each, based on my subjective experience of the wine and the foods that I’ve matched with similar wines in the past. Now you can see why it’s an art. Until you have had the two together, you can’t really “know,” but you often get a feeling and so I go with that. All of these dishes could pair in general with most Pinot Noirs, so I’m pulling from a group that I’ve already defined in my own head: foods I like with Cali Pinot Noir. Then when I have the subtle (and not so subtle) differences of these four Pinots in my mind, I’ll select individual dishes from the general category that match something particular in each wine. I think of it as harmonizing disparate sensations to create a melodious whole.

My first Pinot is the Redwood Empire 2009 from North Coast, Sonoma County, ruby colored and crystal clear at $13 per bottle. At first whiff I get a hint of smoke, then Bing cherry with cranberry tartness on the tongue. This Pinot has good acid structure, not quite Burgundian, but certainly some rustic acidity. I get notes of vanilla, tea and cola as the wine opens up in my glass with just a hint of cedar and spicebox on the finish. My first thought is a grilled salmon, maybe even with a teriyaki marinade or just some olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Roast free-range chicken would also be a nice pairing, with some woody herbs and maybe prunes and onions stuffed inside the cavity surrounded by fingerling potatoes. My first cheese choices are French Port Salut or a young Italian Taleggio. Both are creamy with just a little bite that would soften the acid of the wine, just as that bite is lessened by pairing with a wine.

My second Pinot is the Fleur 2009 Central Coast with a color that has a little more purple than just ruby and costs $15 per bottle. Cedar and smoky oak jump out of my glass with an aroma of wild strawberries, that shifts to tart plums and red currants on the tongue. There is an earthy richness to this wine, giving structure without too much farmyard. This Pinot has a little more weight on the palate and finishes with a hint of mocha, once it’s opened up, ending with notes of white pepper. The pronounced acidity in this wine brings a lengthy finish and calls for food to soften the edges just a bit. So I think of duck breast first, maybe with a sauce of currants and peppercorns steeped in red wine. Then I consider a lamb chop with rosemary and garlic, because the rustic acids in this wine scream for slightly gamier fare. As far as cheeses, Swiss Appenzeller or a Cave-Aged Gruyere come to mind first. Both have a salty, earthy, almost stinky characteristic without being Limburger, which will harmonize with the acids in the wine, lessening the sharper edges of both cheese and wine into this magical union of rich flavors.

To be continued…

Cheers!

Daniel Eddy, Fine Wine Consultant for ABC in Gainesville, Florida

Daniel is also the Wine Pairing Examiner for Examiner.com: you can read more of his pairing suggestions at http://www.examiner.com/wine-pairing-in-gainesville/daniel-eddy

In preparation for my visit to South Africa’s Cape Wine 2012 next month I’ve been enjoying some of the wonderful wines that country has to offer. Some are samples of wines that I’m hoping to see in our ABC stores sometime in the future while others are new wines that we currently carry.

We’ve been gradually adding to our portfolio of wines from Graham Beck Estates over the last few years and I must say that the wines in their various price ranges are true delights. We began with their entry level Shiraz, Shiraz Cabernet and Chardonnay. Then we soon moved on to their Game Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon and Game Reserve Chenin Blanc, which are both astounding wines at their mid-teens price range. Later we added the Game Reserve Sauvignon Blanc and Game Reserve Chardonnay and a delicious entry level Chenin Blanc/Sauvignon Blanc blend which makes me lick my lips just to think about. Another great addition were the Graham Beck sparkling wines – a non-vintage Brut and Brut Rosé – which are among my favorite sparklers from anywhere in the world short of Champagne itself.

The most recent arrival on our shelves is Graham Beck The Game Reserve Shiraz 2007 – and it’s another winner! The wine is 100% Shiraz from Stellenbosch in South Africa’s famed Western Cape. Grown in granite gravels with underlying clay, the grapes are hand-picked at optimum ripeness. The wine has a rich juicy palate with attractive mocha and chocolate flavors complemented by ripe mulberry, blueberry and white pepper nuances on the nose. Winemaker/Cellar Master Pieter Ferreira offers us a wine that is big structured with a juicy mid-palate and ripe but firm tannins on the finish.

As always with Graham Beck wines, their environmental concerns mean that they farm in harmony with nature, which, as they say, means “healthier crops, more responsible wines and a better life for future generations.” By purchasing these wines you contribute toward the preservation of the 3700 acre game reserve that runs adjacent to their Robertson winery.

Enjoy this delicious wine with rich casseroles or hearty stews.

Bill Stobbs, ABC Wine Supervisor

(Follow me on Twitter at abcwinebills)

This past holiday season I gave my thousands of readers a guide to buying me a present. As we roll into August and my birthday fast approaches, I thought this would be a good time to refresh your memory of just how easy it is to buy a gift for wine lovers.

Same rules apply. You don't have to spend a lot of money. In fact I wish you wouldn't because then I'll feel like I have to reciprocate. The only thing I absolutely insist on is that you please do not buy my wine at the grocery store. The thought of my present rattling around a shopping cart with the kitty litter and laundry detergent just kills me. This on top of the fact that you will find a better selection at more competitive prices if you do your shopping in a store that specializes in wine.

Okay, enough of that. You probably want a few specific suggestions. Italian wine is always welcome, but despite what some may think, I do like variety in my life.

I love Pinot Noir, especially during the summer months. We recently acquired a new/old producer of California Pinot Noir. Francis Mahoney founded the Carneros Creek Winery in 1972. After a short retirement he recently reinvented himself and launched a new winery. Three price tiers of Pinot Noir can be purchased from Francis Mahoney: Redwood Empire, Fleur and his flagship wines, with the Mahoney name on the label. These Pinots have quickly won critical praise for being balanced and elegant with bright, focused fruit. These wines can be purchased for between $14 to $35 depending on your budget.

I never seem to have enough white wine on hand in the summer, so someone please get me a bottle of Domaine Serge Laloue Sancerre. This classic Sancerre has grapefruit and floral notes, a load of minerality from the soil and a long zesty finish. This gift will only set you back $17.99.

Another intriguing white I wouldn't mind receiving is the Shannon Ridge Roussanne. Roussanne is typically found in the Rhone Valley of France but this example from California's Lake County is full of tropical fruit flavors with a rich creamy finish. For $16.99 and a bow you have my birthday present! See how easy I am to shop for?

I know my truly loyal fans will want to impress me, so I have to go back to Italy. My two favorite producers of Brunello di Montalcino, La Gerla and Poggio Il Castellare have just released the classic 2006 vintage. These wines are destined to find their way into my wine cellar and be enjoyed in the future with best friends.

Thanks in advance for the gifts.

Paul Quaglini

Follow me on Twitter @abcwinepaulq

Beer blogger Adam Shugan is trekking the world (virtually, anyway) tasting beers. Today: Guatemala.

After my time in Asia, I am taking a long journey to Latin America in my world tour of beers. I am going to Guatemala City, Guatemala, at Cerveceria Centro Americana, South America for Bahia Lager Cerveza Especial. Some other beers in the CCA line up include Sol and Famosa. It is another adjunct lager.

Appearance: It comes in a clear bottle with a marlin in the logo. I discussed skunked beer when I wrote about Kronenbourg 1664 a few blogs ago. When I first tried this beer it really had been skunked, which was a consequence of being light-struck. The taste was very powerful and turned me off but I gave it the benefit of the doubt and chalked it up to being a strain of yeast like Heineken. No beer really is safe from being light-struck. A brown bottle is the best color for avoiding this and obviously a clear bottle provides no protection. Beer can get light-struck when it has been exposed to ultraviolet light for a period of time. To get technical, hops contain molecules called isohumulones. The ultraviolet light rends the molecules and they bind to naturally occurring sulfur atoms in the beer. This in turn creates a scent that mimics a skunk’s defense, hence the term. There is a difference between a truly skunked beer and the skunky yeast some brewers use.

Smell: Skunk free! I get alternating dried crackers and sweet biscuits. I am pleasantly surprised at the smell compared to the last bottle I had.

Taste: the typical adjunct lager qualities of corny sweetness and an astringent finish. It is a touch sweeter than Corona but equally easy drinking. I passed up the lime this time but a little lime juice would probably provide some good flavor. Like the Asian beers complementing Asian cuisine I would fancy this beer pairing well with some slow cooked pollo or pulled pork enchiladas.

Now you know to simply keep your beer out of direct sunlight and put the bottle in a coozie. One common misconception I do want to debunk right now is the myth of skunking your beer by buying it cold and letting it get warm. Aside from buying cold beer and then leaving it in your trunk for a few hours in this 90 degree weather, letting a beer gradually get to room temperature and then re-chilling it will not alter the taste in any way. Most beers on their journey to the states go through a lot of temperature ups and downs before getting to your refrigerator. So please, don’t waste your time looking for already room temperature beer; instead, buy a cold six-pack if available to enjoy whenever you feel like!

Beer blogger Adam Shugan is the store manager at our Silver Springs Blvd, Ocala, store.

In March, Robert M. Parker Jr. finalized his scores on the 2009 vintage in bottle….a few months earlier than in past years. I was pretty much finished with the Campaign 2009….until that point! His scores caught many by surprise (18 wines finished with 100 points!) and needless to say, nearly every wine I still had to offer was scooped up within a day or two! So with the last of the 2009s gone, what do you have to look forward to?

2010: A (another) pivotal vintage…With Robert Parker blessing so many of the 2009s with 100 points, where does a rating go from there? The 2010s are wonderful, and look like they may give 2009 a run for the money. The major difference between the two is that the 2009s will be accessible sooner, where the 2010s are much more tannic and backwards, indicating a ‘vin de garde’ vintage, one for the cellar. Prices in 2010 were, again, record breaking, although, let’s be honest, that is as frequent as the vintage of the century song! Can’t wait till next year and see how the ratings pan out! I can say now, however, that I have a small amount of the 1st Growths still available at opening prices….Get them while you can, because in the Spring next year, you may well wish you did.

2011: Futures and their future…So, finally, Bordeaux has to eat a bit of humble pie in 2011. The wines are turning out to be fine, but more like 2008, only for a bunch more money. Chateau Lafite-Rothschild, which oddly was one of the first estates to open (NOT one of the first TOP estates to open, one of the first in the vintage!) offered their wine at prices about 30% less than last year. Apparently their thought was to price 2011 as the most affordable vintage currently available, to stimulate sales. Anyone not following suit is, at least at this early stage, is digging their own grave…..remember 1997? Cos d’Estournel opened at a very nice price (about half) compared to ’09 and ’10, but there are so many awesome vintages of this wine available now, drinking now, for less, why would anyone snap this up on the futures campaign? The exceptions are probably the First Growths, which, with severe selection on the sorting table, managed to still make wonderful 2011s. My feeling is that, besides the First Growths (and maybe a few of the super-seconds) 2011 will prove to be a vintage relegated to ‘a drinking vintage’ and for restaurants. Except in Sauternes…

Shayne Hebert

Follow me on Twitter @abcwineshayne

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Brew Hops & Wine Stops

Sunshine in a bottle: Chandon

California Dreamin': Caymus

What's the "mother-load"?

Tropical storm Isaac and a Rocky Patel Gladiator cigar

Off Tap...and online

Saving the best for you

What's new from France: Cave de Tavel

A little something different to drink

May I suggest a Vermentino?

World tour of beer: Costa Rica and Imperial

Direct to You: Marchiori & Barraud Perdriel Malbec

Anyone have a sweet tooth?

Four Pinot Pairings from Redwood Empire, Fleur and Mahoney continued

Four Pinot Pairings from Redwood Empire, Fleur and Mahoney

Beer and BBQ

Another great wine from Graham Beck Estates

Sancerre for the summer: Domaine Serge Laloue

Up in smoke

My Birthday Present

Around the world in 80 beers: Bahia Lager

Vintage 2012: Chile and Argentina (First Impressions)

Vintage update: Bordeaux 2010 and 2011