Continuing travel memoir from Laurence Phillips, one of the wine consultants visiting Napa last week.

The day after Caymus, we visited the impressive Domaine Chandon Napa Valley Sparkling Wine House. We had the honor to be taken on a very informative tour and tasting with Ken Stayner, Chandon Lead Ambassador. This was followed by an incredible meal at the onsite Michelin starred restaurant “etoile,” which originally opened in 1977.

In 1973, Domaine Chandon became the first French-owned sparkling wine venture in the United States. The famous Champagne producer Moet & Chandon and acclaimed Cognac maker Hennessey combined forces with the mission of producing world class sparkling wine in Napa Valley. They identified prime vineyard sites at Carneros, in Mt.Veeder and Yountville, the location Domaine Chandon now calls home.

Chandon’s first sparkling wine was released in 1976. In 1977, the Visitor Center was opened.

As we started the tour Ken explained that Chandon had already begun their harvest on the 12^th August 2012. Chandon is one of the first to harvest in Napa given that they are looking for fruit at the beginning stages of ripeness with grapes high in acid and lower in sugar. Preparation for harvest was a common theme in the other wineries we had visited with many of them just having finished bottling to free up space.

We got to see the long row of 14,100 gallon stainless steel tanks. Next we visited the large barrel room, where we also got to see the huge riddling machine.

Chandon grows the three primary grapes Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier used in sparkling wine.

The production of still wine is 10 - 15% with sparkling wine being 85 - 90%.

Chandon sources their fruit from three locations with 25 vineyards and 1000 acres of vines.

Mount Veeder Vineyards - planted with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Carneros Vineyards - planted with Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier.

Yountville Vineyards - planted with Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

We were given a run through the methode traditionnelle production process used at Chandon. It involves:

Making and blending base wine. Base wine from past vintages is added to maintain consistency.

Secondary fermentation prompted with addition of a liqueur de tirage ( sugar syrup and base wine ) plus yeast. A Bidul ( small plastic hollow plug device ) is fitted into bottle neck and then it is crown capped. During the second fermentation, the carbon dioxide produced is locked inside the wine.

Aging on yeast lees from 18 months to 7 years depending on quality designation. Yeast lees impart flavors to the wine such as toast and brioche. The more time the wine spends in contact with the lees the more these flavors are imparted.

Riddling to gently push yeast sediment into the neck of bottle. An automated very large machine ( VLM ) that holds 4000 bottles is used to perform this function.

Disgorging - the yeast lees removal process. The bottle neck is frozen, the bidul containing frozen yeast lees is removed from bottle leaving a clear sparkling wine.

Dosage or top up - adding liqueur d’expedition ( base wine and sugar ) to fill bottle back to full level. This is were the dry / sweetness levels of the sparkling wine is determined. There are several designations from from bone dry to sweet as follows. Brut Zero - Extra Brut - Brut - Extra Dry - Sec - DemiSec - Doux.

A cork is inserted, with a capsule and wire cage securing it in place.

We had the pleasure of tasting the following wines, along with meeting winemaker Tom Tiburzi: 

Chandon Brut Classic - Chardonnay driven refreshing , soft, dry sparkler with apple / citrus notes.

Chandon Blanc de Noirs - a Pinot Noir / Pinot Meunier blend, creamy texture with hints of strawberry.

Chandon Rose - Chardonnay with Pinot Noir, a vibrant fruity sparkler with watermelon and strawberry.

Chandon Extra Dry Riche - Chardonnay with 30% Muscat, luscious with peach, honey & apricot.

Chandon Etoile Brut - 65% Chardonnay / 35% Pinot Noir - Aged 5 years sur lie, a graceful vibrant sparkling wine with notes of honey, toasted almonds, lemon custard and apple.

Chandon Etoile Rose - 65% Pinot Noir / 35% Chardonnay - Aged 5 years sure lie, a refined complex sparkling wine with notes of plum, nutmeg, cocoa, ginger and truffles and tiny bubbles.

Domaine Chandon also produces single varietal still wine, and we tasted Chandon Carneros Chardonnay, Chandon Pinot Meunier, Chandon Pinot Noir; Chandon has also introduced a Cabernet Sauvignon to their still wine range.

The still wine that really stood out for me was the Pinot Meunier. It was a unique wine with an earthy, spicy character. It had notes of lavender, plum, pepper, nutmeg and a luscious finish. 

Laurence Phillips, Wine Consultant, ABC Fine Wine & Spirits Store 017, Viera, Melbourne.