Four Pinot Pairings from Redwood Empire, Fleur and Mahoney continued

The third Pinot Noir is the Fleur 2010 Carneros, burgundy purple in color and $18 per bottle. I smell ripe black cherry aromas at first leading to a sense of black pepper and blackberry doing battle in my mouth. The ripe and jammy fruits definitely win out, and it has a smoother and richer mouthfeel common to Carneros Pinots. It opens to pomegranate, black pepper and spice, with a hint of cocoa and a long finish. Though jammy, there is still some good acidity in this wine. The first food to come to my mind is a classic Paté de Campagne, the usual style, with pork and liver as well as some mushrooms or nuts, maybe even pignoli. You can make it yourself or pick one up at your local grocer (or even from some of our fancier ABCs). I might also pair this wine with grilled Portobello mushrooms over a spinach salad with some baked Brie on the side. Dutch Aged Gouda or Parrano would be my first cheese choices, since their salty richness would play well with the vibrant acidity of this cooler clime Pinot, yet still have a soft sweetness on the finish.


 Our final Pinot is the Mahoney 2008 Carneros with violet purple tones and a price tag of $24. My first scent is of loam and fresh mushrooms, reminiscent of Burgundy, but including Cassis liqueur, also from Burgundy.  Blackberry, black currants and licorice hit my tongue, as this is a ripe and rich wine, almost a fruit bomb, but with just enough acidity to bring real structure and complexity. I’m left with a perception of smooth elegance and a rich mouthfeel. After opening up I get hints of Damson plum and sasparilla soda with a long finish. My first thought is to pair with an Ahi Tuna Steak, which I like “blue” or just barely seared on each side. Maybe cooked with an Asian-inspired marinade with just a hint of heat, since this is a jam-packed wine. Pinots can work very well with fatty fishes, so salmon and tuna often come to mind. Another thought would be to pair with pork tenderloin, again using some of the wines flavors in the potential sauce, so black currant or plum would match well. Maybe some fennel, sliced and slow-roasted as a side would hint at the licorice without overwhelming. For the cheese my top fave is Burgundy’s Epoisses, which has a decadent earthy richness that would sing with this wine. If unavailable then maybe you can try Reblechon or just some potent Camembert.


 Balance is always key in pairing and hints are better than slaps in the face. What these Pinots all share is abundant acidity, so these juicy wines don’t seem over-extracted and flabby. Cool weather in each of these locales helps, but it’s definitely the art of the winemaker at play and there is a “house style” to these wines. My personal favorite was the Mahoney, but I’m happy with all of these very food friendly wines at a range of prices. As I said, pairing is an art not a science, but an art that any of us can enjoy, so pick up a bottle and create your own perfect Pinot pairing.


Cheers!


 


Daniel Eddy, Fine Wine Consultant for ABC in Gainesville, Florida


Wine Pairing Examiner for Examiner.com http://www.examiner.com/wine-pairing-in-gainesville/daniel-eddy


 



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