Wine pairing is an art, not a science. Like many arts it can ape the scientific method, because there are patterns one can define, but the deepest truth is subjectivity, especially when it comes to taste and the tasting process. My tongue is not in your mouth, and vice versa. We can come to common ground, and that is the true art, coming up with combinations that most people like, though not necessarily all. On a past Top Chef I was thrilled when they used the statistic that only about 10% of pairings fail, and then maybe 10% are truly sublime, which still leaves us an 80% chance of pretty darn good to not so bad, which should empower us to want to pair more.

 Today I am analyzing four Pinot Noirs that are all from the same producer, but from different locations and vintages. Even though they are the same varietal and they have the same wine maker, there are significant differences in these wines. Therefore I am coming up with different pairings for each, based on my subjective experience of the wine and the foods that I’ve matched with similar wines in the past. Now you can see why it’s an art. Until you have had the two together, you can’t really “know,” but you often get a feeling and so I go with that. All of these dishes could pair in general with most Pinot Noirs, so I’m pulling from a group that I’ve already defined in my own head: foods I like with Cali Pinot Noir. Then when I have the subtle (and not so subtle) differences of these four Pinots in my mind, I’ll select individual dishes from the general category that match something particular in each wine. I think of it as harmonizing disparate sensations to create a melodious whole.

 My first Pinot is the Redwood Empire 2009 from North Coast, Sonoma County, ruby colored and crystal clear at $13 per bottle. At first whiff I get a hint of smoke, then Bing cherry with cranberry tartness on the tongue. This Pinot has good acid structure, not quite Burgundian, but certainly some rustic acidity. I get notes of vanilla, tea and cola as the wine opens up in my glass with just a hint of cedar and spicebox on the finish. My first thought is a grilled salmon, maybe even with a teriyaki marinade or just some olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Roast free-range chicken would also be a nice pairing, with some woody herbs and maybe prunes and onions stuffed inside the cavity surrounded by fingerling potatoes. My first cheese choices are French Port Salut or a young Italian Taleggio. Both are creamy with just a little bite that would soften the acid of the wine, just as that bite is lessened by pairing with a wine.

 My second Pinot is the Fleur 2009 Central Coast with a color that has a little more purple than just ruby and costs $15 per bottle. Cedar and smoky oak jump out of my glass with an aroma of wild strawberries, that shifts to tart plums and red currants on the tongue. There is an earthy richness to this wine, giving structure without too much farmyard. This Pinot has a little more weight on the palate and finishes with a hint of mocha, once it’s opened up, ending with notes of white pepper. The pronounced acidity in this wine brings a lengthy finish and calls for food to soften the edges just a bit. So I think of duck breast first, maybe with a sauce of currants and peppercorns steeped in red wine. Then I consider a lamb chop with rosemary and garlic, because the rustic acids in this wine scream for slightly gamier fare. As far as cheeses, Swiss Appenzeller or a Cave-Aged Gruyere come to mind first. Both have a salty, earthy, almost stinky characteristic without being Limburger, which will harmonize with the acids in the wine, lessening the sharper edges of both cheese and wine into this magical union of rich flavors.

To be continued…

Cheers!

Daniel Eddy, Fine Wine Consultant for ABC in Gainesville, Florida

Daniel is also the Wine Pairing Examiner for Examiner.com: you can read more of his pairing suggestions at http://www.examiner.com/wine-pairing-in-gainesville/daniel-eddy