One of the more fascinating occurrences of the wine world arises when a country suddenly finds that it possesses a grape variety that has caught the world’s attention and interest. We think of Australian Shiraz, New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc, South African Pinotage and Argentinian Malbec. Also coming on strong right now is Chilean Carménère.

“What?” you say. “I tried Carménère fifteen years ago and didn’t like it at all. A cheap wine that tastes like bell peppers.”

Well, I say, there have been developments. A renaissance in fact. And quality Carménère is well worth a second try.

The story of Carménère is a strange one. It is one of the most ancient of grape varieties, originating in Spain but gaining prominence in the Médoc and Graves regions of Bordeaux, where along with Cabernet Franc it was the most planted red grape variety until the mid-18^th century when Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot began to take over. The name ‘Carménère’ comes from the French word ‘carmin,’ meaning crimson, which refers to the color of the leaf before it falls. Today Carménère is almost extinct in Bordeaux. Most of it was destroyed when Phylloxera struck Bordeaux in 1867. When, in its aftermath, replanting began, the variety was difficult to find, and because it was a problematic grape to grow, it was largely forgotten. The six red grapes allowed in Bordeaux suddenly became five.

This is where the story of Carménère takes a strange turn. Just before Phylloxera attacked the Old World, a number of Bordelaise vines were shipped to Chile, where Phylloxera never invaded. The problem was, because they look so much alike, the Carménère was thought to be Merlot or a Merlot clone. So for well over a hundred years Chilean Carménère was sold as Merlot. It wasn’t until 1994 that a French ampelographer finally identified the grape as Carménère.

Imagine the dilemma! This was right at the height of the Merlot craze, and just as the Chilean wine industry was beginning to emerge in the international market. Desperately, the marketers began to sing the praises of ‘Bordeaux’s lost grape variety’ now to be found in Chile. But as the Carménère was still being harvested and vinified like Merlot, the marketing was usually better than the wine itself and interest in the grape declined.

Now, however, time has passed and a lot of study has been made of this fascinating variety. It was discovered that Carménère needs about 2-3 more weeks of hang time than Merlot to ripen properly. And that it needs to grow in a moderate climate that doesn’t get too hot. And that it requires little rainfall or irrigation, as too much water brings out those unwanted herbaceous characteristics. Under these conditions the quality of the wine improved vastly.

Carménère is perhaps the deepest, darkest, purplest of all red grapes. At its best it is a medium-bodied wine with smooth tannins and somewhat spicy fruit with hints of cherry, smoke, dark chocolate, tobacco, leather and soy.

A recent mid-priced arrival at ABC offers an excellent example. Casas del Bosque Reserva Carménère 2012 from Rapel Valley in Chile is among the best Chilean Carménères I’ve come across. Rated 90 points by Stephen Tanzer the wine “exhibits heady notes of black pepper, black cherry with just a hint of fresh rosemary. In the mouth an initial attack of red plum, sweet tobacco and cinnamon gives way to just a touch of red bell pepper. Ripe tannins and fresh acidity combine to give good balance and length.”

Definitely a wine to try and to enjoy!

Bill Stobbs, ABC Wine Supervisor

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