It’s a common refrain that true Champagne, that is the most famous and prestigious sparkling wine in the world, must be produced within the strict confines of this eponymous region in northern France to be the genuine article.  This fact is, of course, indisputable.  All other sparkling wines produced throughout the world, irrespective of quality, are technically just so. 

But save for perhaps the most ardent aficionado, the conventional enthusiast probably wouldn’t know that the Champagne region itself actually has a bit of a split personality.  You could call it a Champenoise version of north and south.

In the north of the appellation, there is the Champagne produced near the postcard cities of Epernay and Reims, home to region’s most famous houses, like Mumm, Moёt & Chandon and Veuve Clicquot.  Yet a journey to the extreme south of the region, towards the medieval city of Troyes, reveals another side to Champagne; a less heralded but no less gifted district named the Côte des Bar.

For generations of grower-producers in the Côte des Bar, their vineyards served an integral role as a source of high quality grapes for the big houses in the north.  These farming families also made a small amount of Champagne, too.  Recently, the increased global demand for Champagne has enabled the best of these smaller houses in the region to gain a wider audience.

Francois Moutard of Champagne Moutard-Diligent can trace his family’s grape growing heritage in the village of Buxeuil back to 1642.  Around the time the Champagne appellation was officially defined in 1927, Moutard-Diligent began to bottle wine under its own name.

Today, winemaker Francois oversees 22 hectares of vineyards planted to the essential varieties of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier rooted in predominantly limestone soils.  These are the same prized Kimmeridgian and Portlandian deposits that are found in nearby Chablis, located just to the south.  It’s this terroir that gives his wines a wonderful stony minerality.

Moutard produces two 100% Pinot Noir non-vintage cuvees:  the full-bodied, straw colored Moutard Brut NV ($34.99), a Blanc de Noir produced from free-run juice and the zesty Moutard Rose de Cuvaison NV ($39.99) with lovely red berry fruit and a creamy texture.  Employing a short maceration with the Pinot Noir skins gives this wine its vibrant coral pink color.

Perhaps what truly distinguishes the Côte des Bar from the other districts within the Champagne appellation is the utilization of three obscure Champagne grape varieties:  Pinot Blanc, Petit Meslier and Arbane.

Moutard uses these to great effect in his two vintage tête de cuvees.  The Moutard Cuvee des 6 Cepages ($56.99) is an iconoclastic, barrel fermented blend of all six permitted Champagne varieties with the rare Arbane and Petit Meslier added to equal portions of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Pinot Meunier and Pinot Blanc.  It sports a bright gold hue and rich notes of hazelnut, pear, coffee and pastry.

Moutard also produces a limited bottling of the sensational and unique Moutard Cepages Arbane Vielle Vignes ($79.99) comprised completely of single vineyard arbane fruit sourced from a hillside planted in 1952.

I’d also be remiss if I didn’t include a mention of their two other terrific offerings:  Moutard Champ Persin ($39.99) a Blanc de Blanc made entirely of Chardonnay from a single vineyard plot.  There’s even a semi-sweet “dessert” Champagne to serve with shortbread cookies:  Moutard Demi Sec ($32.99).

The holidays are just around the corner and I can’t think of a better way to celebrate than with these distinctive bubblies.  Cheers!

Jim Greeley, SW Florida wine supervisor

Follow me on Twitter @ABCWineJimG